Saturday, October 30, 2010

The 4-Stage New City Theory

Here I am: San Francisco, CA. I landed a job as an Account Manager in an ad agency (yay!) and made the big move. The past two months have been total chaos - but I'm really making progress on the life project. So I got philosophical about it:

In the past 3 years I’ve lived in 11 places. Yup, I’m ready to get settled in and stay in one spot now. Being someone who has relocated to a new city many times, I’ve discovered that there are four stages to adjusting to a new place.

Stage 1: Love (1 to 3 months)

When you first arrive everything is new and exciting and amazing. It’s like being a tourist; for a short while you don’t have to notice anything negative and you don’t want to. You want to fall in love and there is so much to intake that you only bother processing the things you like. So many delicious places to eat! So much to explore! To see! To do! This is an adventure; it’s so exciting!

Stage 2: Hate (1 to 3 months)

Suddenly you realize that you can’t leave. You’re stuck in this place and (gasp!) it’s not perfect. You notice the dirty, the ugly and the inconvenient. You get a terrible haircut and miss all the little nuances that made the last place you lived special. You also begin to process the realities of your life and your situation. This isn’t a vacation nor an adventure: it’s real life. Boo. 

Stage 3: Adjust (6 to 9 months)

You process your love and your hate. You learn to get around. You find a doctor, a hairstylist, a favorite coffee shop and your preferred bar. You learn how you personally fit into your new world and develop routines to make it comfortable. You nest into a home and begin to craft a social network. Hopefully you’ve got a job and you start to get the hang of it as well. 

Stage 4: Thrive (Forever)

You’ve accepted the imperfect and figured out how your world functions. Now you’re ready to embrace the things that are unique and special about your city. This is when you find hidden gems and become a city guru. When people come to visit, you know all the cool spots and can play tour guide. You've got a social network now, and maybe a relationship. Life is good.

I’ve found that stages 1-3 always happen. Stage 4? Not always. You can adjust to a place and never really thrive there. That was me in Orange County. Yeah, I lived there for 2 years and had a life. Did I ever really start liking it? Nope. Argentina, on the other hand, was amazing for me. I got to do each stage in vivid color and found my groove.

I do recommend that you never leave a place in the Hate stage. You really have to give a city at least 6 months to a year in order to judge if it could be right for you.

Right now I'm optimistic about my move, but it takes time. There have been some overwhelming parts and I'm probably somewhere between Love and Hate right now and trying to be patient while I adjust. Life in SF has massive potential.

This 4-Stage New City Theory is based on my personal experience and has no real sociological foundation, so I’m curious to hear what you think. Have you experienced the same stages when adjusting to a new life?

Wednesday, August 18, 2010

Job hunting is like dating.

Do they like me? Do I like them? Are we a good fit? Could this be the "the one?

The correlation between job hunting and dating struck me as I fretted over the fact that I didn't receive an offer post-interview last week. The truth of the matter? It wasn't the right fit. Maybe 80%. That's not good enough, self! I'm looking for a job that meets all my requirements. So why did I wait by the phone hoping for a call? It's basic human instinct: we want people to want us. Despite the fact that I didn't want that job I didn't want them to reject me. Oh, no. I wanted to be in control of my own destiny and choose to reject the offer. Classic dating story.

Since the job hunting/dating correlation is so vivid (at least in my mind) I've decided to continue the logic and apply some great dating advice to my job hunting. For example:
  • If they're not interested in you, it wasn't meant to be (apply advice to example above). It's not fun to hear "no" but we must make peace with reality and bravely accept rejection. If my prospective new employer isn't thrilled to have me on board, well… that's not where I'm meant to be… or where I want to be. I'm all about the situation where we're both excited I got the job.
  • Be yourself. So maybe I could charm an interviewer and tell them stories about imaginary feats. First of all, I'm a bad liar so that won't work. Second, if it did, I'd get caught as soon as the job began. Just like when you start dating: after a couple of months dirty secrets start coming out. It's only a matter of time. Be yourself from the beginning! Then it's much easier to identify a good match when it exists.
  • Be patient. Desperation is your worst enemy; be it the job hunt or the romantic chase. Think about how many people jump at the first offer and end up in a sub-par relationship. Like Mom always told you, just keep putting yourself out there and the right one will come along eventually. For me, this advice has been applicable: Since that job passed me up I've discovered other options with excellent potential. What if I had received an offer? What if I'd said "yes" out of desperation? WHERE would I be now? Headed for a break-up secondary job hunt in a year. Nope, better to wait for the right fit to come along so you can form a healthy long-term relationship.
What other pieces of dating advice apply to job hunting? I have a feeling this could just go on and on…

Monday, August 9, 2010

Patriotism lives in my iPod.

Is there anything more red, white and blue American than country music? No. Nothing. Not peanut butter, not hamburgers. Country music represents the absolute essence of my personal patriotism.

I'm not a typical country music fan. See, I'm a city girl. However, despite the living locations I've chosen over the past 10 years, I'm originally from small-town America: Redding CA. That's pure NorCal. Here people drive pick-up trucks, talk about their horses and are proud of their prize cows. At least 4 of my relatives have chickens running around on their properties. Wearing Wanglers, boots and a shiny gold belt buckle is not a fashion crime; in fact you might get complimented. So, if you consider my roots I feel I have a genuine claim to be a country music fan.

It all started with Willie Nelson. When I was a little girl my Mom used to cue up "Stardust" whenever we departed for a road trip. I've got a nostalgic love for Willie now: in fact, when I lived in Argentina he made me cry. Actually, when I lived in Argentina most country music made me cry. That's because country music simply doesn't exist outside of the USA. The only way I would hear Willie or Shania or Sugarland was via my own personal importation. On days when I felt extra homesick, I'd navigate my iPod to a country mix while hustling through the streets of Buenos Aires. In those moments, I'd feel like my own culture flowed through me and gave me definition. No matter where I am, what language I speak or how I'm dressed some things will never change: I'm an American. And I've got an iPod full of country music to prove it.

Last week I had the great pleasure of attending a Toby Keith (and Trace Adkins!) concert. First of all, it was a blast because I went with my fantastic cousin Keri and made a couple new friends. Second, it was a bit of a personal celebration for me. I think that going to a country concert is about the most patriotic activity I've ever participated in.


We sat in the back of the pick-up truck tailgating and drinking whiskey while watching cutoff blue jeans and cowboy hats stroll by. But the most beautiful moment of the night was the finale: at the end of the concert Toby sang "Courtesy of the red, white, and blue" and suddenly a burst of flag-themed confetti flowed through the sky on the cool, dry NorCal breeze. It was a beautiful moment: Standing with my arms around my friends, listening to that deep voice singing about the USA I felt grateful. These are my roots and this is my culture, and I'm proud to admit I'm a country music fan. It might just be the most patriotic thing about me!

Monday, August 2, 2010

El Diccionario: an Argentine vocab compilation

Working in an office filled with Argentines for two years meant I received a unique vocabulary expansion opportunity. Since I am a curious human being, I was always asking questions and attempting to understand the chatter taking place around me. As a result, I discovered I was expanding my vocabulary daily. In order to remember the random things I learned, I began compiling a dictionary. The majority were slang phrases and a large percentage were, um, uncouth. Some were just plain odd. I mean, no one teaches you that having "crocodiles in your pockets" means you're a cheapscate in Spanish class.

Cleaning out my work files the other day I stumbled across "El diccionario" and thought I'd share. Just for fun, here's the clean(ish) version:

Chasco = gag gift
Puntillista = meticulous/fussy in a good way
Prolija = precise, put-together, perfectionistic
Mañosa = meticulous in a bad way, control freak
Copada = Cool
Dar bola = pay attention
Telgopor = polyfan = poliestireno =Styrofoam
Gruñóna = grumpy
Autobomba = self-propoganda
Bombacha = girl undies
"Dime con quién andas y te diré quién eres" = "Tell me who you hang out with and I'll tell you who you are"
Zapar = jamming (only with music)
Caño = pole
Zanja = ditch
Cambalache = kitch
Cachetazo = slap
Cachete = cheek
Entrometer = meddle, interfere, intrude, barge in
Bostezar = Yawn
“No es grupo” = no es mentira = it's not a lie
Sigla = Acronym
Codito/Amarete = cheap or Gaista = Jew
Cocodrilos en el bolsillo = crocodiles in your pocket (cheap)
Plomo = “staff” at a concert or an insistent person or a boring item
Lamer = to lick
Camionera = truck driver’s mouth (for a girl)
Hueca = Hollow
Huevadas o coludes = idiotices
Alcahuete / Buchon = tattle tale
Versero = liar, able to speak in lyrical, lying verse
Una pinturita = something that works really well/is great
Calzones = men’s undies
En Babia = spaced out, like you mentally went to Babylon and got lost
Arropar = cover yourself or to cuddle
Rrogar = to beg
Clueca = body doesn’t work right anymore / old and broken-ish
Estoy subido en una palmera = mentally hanging out in a palm tree = in my own little world
Carajo = ship lookout
Te manda al carajo = they sent you on a wild goose chase
Fuiste al carajo = got lost in nowhere
Erizar = to make stand on end
Bochinche = lotsa noise
Que cara de orto tenés! = you've got a pissed off face
Forro = person who doesn’t have any value (this is quite rude)
Fogoso = hot in bed (meow)
Zafa = in the middle
Mocos: Boogers
Metejon = someone you like, a "crush"

Want the dirty version? Just ask. (Although most of you who would care probably have heard it all already, jaja!)

Friday, July 16, 2010

Exploring: DC/VA/MD

I’m somewhere exotic right now: Arlington, Virginia. Ok, so that’s not exotic like Argentina, but when you’re from California this opposing coast is a whole new world ripe for exploration. Arlington is part of the greater Washington DC area, so I’ve been poking around seeing some of the iconic tourist attractions our country offers.

Arlington National Cemetery
is beautiful, stoic and filled me with curiosity. If only those graves could tell their heroic stories. For some reason I find cemeteries to be slightly magical; they have a cool nostalgia– a reminder that these bodies are destructible shells simply containing human essence.



On the 4th of July I was able to catch up with Daniel and Jihee: two former co-workers from my days in the OC, still good friends of mine. They recently bought a condo in DC and had a great day exploring their neighborhood. After a scrumptious brunch at the Tabard Inn we visited the National Cathedral. Since I’ve explored cathedrals in Italy and Spain it shocked me by being so new. I’ve never seen gothic architecture in such perfect condition before. That night made an awesome charcuterie dinner and snuck wine up to their rooftop in plastic cups while watching a gorgeous fireworks show. Afterwards, we could see tiny explosions along the horizon in all directions for hours. I saw fireworks in three states: DC, Maryland and Virgina all in one rooftop experience. Super cool!

Jihee and Daniel also enticed me to visit Old Town Alexandria, VA which is absolutely charming. It’s gigantic as well! I’ve never seen an old, quaint brick downtown like that take up so much real estate and be so functional. We participated in happy hour at Vermillion, which had an upbeat swanky atmosphere and great prices on eclectic, fun munchies. Then we tried Brabo, an unpretentious little wine bar where we were happily surprised by the Yalumba Shiraz and Viognier blend. I’ve never tried those particular grapes together and it was delightful. Especially when enjoyed with such good company.

My host here in DC, Brian, has been taking me to an assortment of delicious eating establishments and fun happy hours as well. I had to be rolled out of Ray’s the Steaks after consuming a decadent NY strip the size of my head. And I couldn’t help but be impressed with Wacky Wednesdays at Mister Day’s sport's bar where they serve $2 beers and the best $2 nachos imaginable. The “love love love” review goes to Tallula: an enchanting restaurant/wine bar right around the corner from Brian’s house. If I lived here I’d be a regular. Amazing food paired with the perfect atmosphere + an extensive wine list makes it a great choice. I also have to comment on the service: we were debating a couple wine choices and our server brought us a flight for tastings to help us decide. It’s those extra details like nuttela-covered mini-donuts delivered with your bill that create favorites.



Brian has also been introducing me to baseball. We went to Baltimore, MD a few weeks ago and caught an Oriole’s game at the historic Camden Yards, an old factory that’s now a gorgeous stadium. I have to admit I may have liked Baltimore’s National Aquarium even better, though. It was by far one of the best aquariums I’ve ever visited, with a gigantic shark tank and rad jelly fish. In contrast to Camden Yards, we also attended a National’s game, held at the Nationals Park Stadium here in DC, which is brand new and sparkling. Personally, I preferred the brick charm of Camden Yards, but if there’s peanuts and beer you can talk me into either!

Finally, I managed to secure a tour of the US Capitol building to partake in a bit of traditional tourism. It was my only real official DC tour and I loved seeing the House of Representatives up close. I didn’t do enough of the museum/monument viewing, so I'm slightly guilty as my return approaches. However every trip has its focus and mine was definitely more about enjoying beautiful moments with wonderful people than on real sightseeing.

After running around South America, it's been an entirely new and wonderful experience venturing across my own country to play tourist on American soil. Our world is so fabulously vast with an array of rich experiences to offer tucked into every corner of the globe. Life just continues to surprise; no matter where we are!

Thursday, July 8, 2010

Full heart, empty bank account.

They say you either have time or money. Right now, I’m enjoying the luxury of having time. After making pesos in Argentina for 2 years and returning to the states flat broke without a full-time job, I can’t really claim to be rolling in cash. The rainbow in that story is that I’ve continued doing a bit of contract work with my company in Argentina so I’ve got a tiny income and I’m completely mobile. While I may not be able to purchase a new shoe collection, right now I have time to visit the people I missed so much while in Argentina. Two years is a long time to be away, and I have some serious catching up to do.

I tearfully fell into my parent’s arms at the airport. Then, the first people I absolutely had to see were my 2 little sisters, Sarah and Marin. How is it possible I went that long without seeing their beautiful faces? Marin lives in San Diego so the whole family met up in May to celebrate her graduation. Since I’m a nomad, I was able to spend over a week there with her, soaking up quality family time. Extra bonus: I got to meet up with my childhood neighbor and dearest friend Davis for beach adventures.



I’ve also gotten to know my cousin Keri all over again, met up for a weekend escape with my college roommate and bestest friend Lisa, driven an hour to meet my mentor Molly for breakfast and enjoyed many bike rides and leisurely dinners with Mom and Dad. I’ve even been studying for the GMAT! Right now I’m in Arlington, Virginia chasing romance and drinking wine with ex-coworkers/current friends.

So there’s no shoe collection, and I can’t help but pout when contemplating my finances. But I’m so rich and lucky right now! Travelling in my own country and visiting my favorite people fills me with love and joy. It’s also brought me insight and direction for my future. I might choose to live in another country again; however I’d need “home” to be accessible. Ideally, I’d love to settle in around the Bay Area where 80% of my favorite humans are within driving distance and there’s a big international airport. We’ll have to see where the job hunt and life search land me. The future is still wide open.

I do recognize that these past few months are a beautiful, but temporary little period in my life, and I’m slowly working on sculpting a new direction for my future. However, at this moment I’m very grateful for my empty bank account, since it means I’ve got extra time to fill up my heart enjoying the people I adore.

Thursday, July 1, 2010

Blogs must transition, too.

Minor epiphany: Since returning to the US after living in Argentina for 2 years, I haven’t been maintaining my blog so well. After a bit of contemplation I realized:
  1. I like this blog! I’m not giving it up. Somehow it’s easier to process the thoughts whirlwinding through my head when I can write them down and share them with you.
  2. My story didn’t end when I got back home to the states. In fact, it’s just beginning.
Now I have to build an entire life from scratch. It’s going to be yet another amazing journey and I’d like to share it with you. I’ve started by updating my blog design a bit. What do you think!?

Tuesday, May 4, 2010

What you eat

Relocating around the globe has made me realize something that seems rather obvious: food is a big deal. You eat 3+ times a day and don't really think much about it. However, when everything you're accustomed to eating changes it's a huge lifestyle adjustment.

When I went to Argentina I desperately missed some of my US habitual foods, which I'm enjoying re-discovering now that I'm home (like string cheese and salad dressing!) Yeah, my butt is growing as we speak! We Americans do have some delicious options.

However, at some point in time I must have adjusted to my Argentine diet and returning has meant I'm re-learning to eat as an American all over again. Can I just say that's freaking confusing!?!

I feel like I should know what I like and want but somewhere over the last two years my personal preferences actually changed. I still can't figure out what I want to eat for breakfast. I make my coffee different. I'm appalled by the amount of packaged/artificial food we eat and I suddenly noticed the ridiculous selection of fast-food and chain restaurants this country features.

So if anyone is coming from Argentina I'm down on my knees begging for some Frutigran cookies (the orange package, please).

Saturday, April 17, 2010

Vacaciones en Costa Rica.

Well, I could write a blog about my trip to Costa Rica but my friend Natalie already did a great job so I am just going to add some extra photos and defer to her: Read Natalie's blog.

Below: The traditional "tico" breakfast: Pico de gallo (black beans mixed with rice) paired with eggs, corn tortillas, funky tico cheese and delicious coffee!
Took a tour of a coffee plantation. These are "peaberry" beans which are actually mutants and create some of the best coffee. Mmmmm...Called the "poor man's umbrella" because these leaves are so giant!
The smokin' Poas Volcano (that sulfur lake was stinky!)At the La Paz Waterfall park (the foliage was even better than the falls!)
I think the sky is bluer and the clouds are fluffier in Costa Rica. Really.Drinking fresh coconut milk on the beach in Puerto Viejo with Natalie! A pirate with a giant machete cut those open for us :) The perfect beach/jungle combo at the national park in Cahuita:
I'm really grateful to have had the opportunity to go to Costa Rica for three reasons:
  1. It was a phenomenal "buffer" between Buenos Aires and the US. It gave me a moment to relax and separate my head from Argentina and start thinking forward to a new chapter.
  2. While I've lived in Argentina and explored that country pretty well I really haven't done much traveling in Latin America. Costa Rica was my first visit to Central America and it is SO different from the big city I was living in. Learning a tiny bit about another culture, a different accent, delicious new foods and completely unique scenery was really nice to give me a new perspective on another part of the world.
  3. I got to see Natalie and Daniel! It's amazing to have close friends scattered across the world and I hope our travel lists will grow together as we meet up at other exotic locations in years to come. Besos y amor.

Sunday, March 28, 2010

The Curious Discovery Journey

Patagonia is the Southern region of Argentina and it is absolutely nada que ver (nothing like) the giant bustling city I’ve been living in for the past two years. Instead, they’re showcasing soaring mountains and gigantic floating blocks of blue ice. I was given the gift of a week spent immersed in nature with my friend Brian, who I hadn’t seen in eight years. It was a spectacular trip. I’m going to let the pictures speak for themselves!

First: Bariloche
Precious little mountain town with a distinct German flair near the border of Chile. They feature artesian chocolates (thankfully someone dragged me out of the chocolate boutique) and microbreweries cast to a scenery of beautiful mountains and crystal clear lakes. Extra bonus: my friend, Meg, lives there so we got our own personal tour guide. Oh, and did I mention the fondue with red wine? Divine!



Second: El Calafate
Growing up in Redding, California means I’ve seen mountains and lakes before. However, never in my life have I seen a glacier. Better yet, I got to climb the glacier wearing crazy spiky cleats and was rewarded with alfahores (delicious cookies) and whiskey (chilled with glacier water) at the end. It was the highlight of the trip for me and I was blown away by the size, color and sheer glory of
the glaciers.


I’m so grateful to have seen a little bit more of Argentina before leaving for good. After the trip was over I had four days to pack up my bags, say goodbye to my home and hop on a plane. What an amazing country! I'm glad to add this trip to a rich collection of memories that have left a lifelong impression on me. Quite the curious discovery journey.

Saturday, March 6, 2010

Saying Good-bye

Friday was my “despedida” or good-bye party. It was a bitter-sweet night: I enjoyed myself immensely but kept being reminded that there are so many precious people here I’ll miss. Oh, and we had absolutely amazing food. I love celebrating like a little piggy!

Over the course of the night I was also reminded of the fact that the words “good-bye” are simply not sufficient. How do you really say good-bye to someone and communicate all the love you’ve felt for them? All the great memories? Especially if I’m not going to see them for a long time, or maybe never again! How can you put that type of good-bye into words? I found that my vocabulary just wasn’t sufficient. I hope that my friends felt my heart through my hugs.

I also feel like the party confirmed that it’s my moment to exit Argentina. There were so many people who were a special part of my Argentine adventure who should have been at my despedida, but they’re all gone now! I’m the only one left of the 12 Americans who took the TEFL course with me during my first month here two years ago. And you know what? I went to all of their despedidas. I’ve probably been to 20 despedidas over the last two years. That’s too many. I’m glad that this last one was mine.

I don’t want more good-byes, although the next few weeks will be full of them. The silver lining, though is that I’m returning in a month and then I’ll be able to change my tune and say “hello!” to everyone I’ve been missing so much.

Sunday, February 28, 2010

Jesus-Land & Bubbles

Yesterday I went to a religious theme park where I had the great pleasure of taking my photo next to Jesus and his bleeding heart. The simple existence of the “Tierra Santa” in Argentina is (in my opinion) the epitome of commercialized religion. Obviously, the Catholic Church is a flagrantly profiting business, however it just seems ridiculous to me that I can go visit Jesus-land and pose with the three wise men and a plastic sheep. It’s incredibly tacky!

Myself, and my friends Hannah and Nathan (who are some of my favorite humans on the planet, by the way) decided that the lure of plastic religion was irresistible and we had to go look. We started out the day with homemade pancakes, dulce de leche and mimosas. Then we gallivanted through the park, took lots of pictures and checked out the hot centurions wearing tiny skirts. I’d like to have a profound statement to make about the place, but really it was just a lot of ugly statues. I felt a bit sorry for the small children. I mean, at 10 years old I would have preferred the water park next door.

To contrast such a pious day, Nathan and I hit up the boliches late-night to get in some dancing. Suddenly, rivers of foam started pouring onto the dance floor and we were drenched in sticky oozing bubbles. It was fun! My shoe did slip off into the bubbly abyss but it miraculously reappeared about five hours later. The only downside to being completely soaked meant I was shivering as I watched the sun rise over the brown river.

Buenos Aires is special and I’m going to miss it. Where else in the world can you go visit Jesus and dance all night in a cloud of foam?

Saturday, January 30, 2010

Secret: Making New Friends.

Just ask.
That’s the secret to making new friends.

For me, that was not an instinctive action. Making new friends was never my forte. While I fiercely love the people I’m close to, I have a tendency to hold tight to a small group and not bother with expansion. I have my golden social moments, but I’m a classic introvert at heart.

However, something interesting happened when I moved to Argentina: I was all alone. Mom is a continent away. My childhood friends, my college roomie, my entire emotional support system: all on the other side of the world. Now, don’t get me wrong, I’m more than happy at home alone with a glass of wine and a good book. However, sometimes it’s good to get outside and see the sunshine and revel in that bonding feeling. We need people. We need relationships in our lives. So I had to figure out how to meet people.

After 26 years and more moves than I can count, I’ve finally learned to make friends. You know what I discovered? The easiest way to make friends is to ask. That’s a little scary. At least for me it was. Asking people if they wanted to be my friend? Inviting them to enter my little world? Approaching them and striking up conversation? That’s not what comes naturally to me. Yet out of necessity I started doing it. Shockingly enough, when I started asking, people said “yes.” They liked me. They wanted to hang out. Little by little, I made friends and developed a support system.

After nearly two years in Argentina, I’ve created lifetime friendships. Along the way I uncovered the magic truth that it's ok to ask people to be your friend. I'll be sad to leave the people I love here. However, I'm comforted because I've learned a very cool lesson that I can apply when I return to the states to start from scratch and build a whole new network all over again: Just ask.

Oh, and if someone reaches out and asks you?
Make sure to say “yes!”

Sunday, January 17, 2010

The Closing

Official announcement: I’ll be back stateside April 7th. This means I’ve arrived a new part of my expat experience: the closing. I can feel myself quietly shutting down my little life here. Internally I’ve got an interesting mix of nostalgia, excitement and dread happening inside my busy little head.

It’s making me slightly apathetic. Since people always come and go in expat-land I’ve been on a crusade to make new friends for the last year and a half. Now that I’m the one leaving? I’m not trying anymore. No more obligatory social events. I haven’t had much luck dating in this country, so I’m giving that up too. No more disaster dates. And you know what? I don’t really feel like staying up until 7am anymore. I did that plenty of times. I don’t have to keep participating unless I’m inspired. It’s a liberating moment: I’m just doing my thing.

Of course, the closing is a moment on my journey and I’ll have to revive efforts and build a new life in the US come April. But until then, I want to enjoy the people I love here and savor these last little moments. I’ll definitely miss my life here in Buenos Aires. The return is wonderful, but the closing is sad.

Wednesday, January 13, 2010

Thirsty? Hungry? Eating & Drinking in Buenos Aires.

Lately I’ve been playing tour guide quite a bit, and I was inspired to make a list of all the restaurants and bars I recommend in Buenos Aires. Since I love to eat and I love to drink, well, I think I've got some good spots on my list. By no means extensive, this list only includes places I’ve actually visited, but my list of places I want to try is even longer! Hopefully I’ll keep eating my way through this city and get to make additions.

Getting started: Breakfast and Lunch
  • Oui Oui – Palermo; Nicaragua 6068; 4778-9614 – French/American. Small, cute cozy atmosphere. They have delicious lemonade, real bacon and big cups of coffee. I adore this spot!
  • Como en Casa – Recoleta; Laprida 1782; 4829-0624 – Truly decadent cakes and pies make this little corner coffee shop/bakery an absolute treasure. They’ve also got great lunch goodies (salads, sandwiches, etc).
  • Crocante – Caballito; Senillosa 98; 4983-6878 – Adorable little café tucked away in Caballito, which is not part of the normal tourist circut and therefore has great prices. They feature aromatic pasteries and the tortas (similar to a quiché) are to die for. If you're in the area, don't miss it.
  • iCentral Market – Puerto Madero; P. Dealessi; 5775-030 – This is an amazing spot for extremely expensive coffee. It’s adorable inside and out and the lady's bathroom is wink pink. I’ve never eaten a full meal here but it’s a perfect for sweets and a caffeine boost while meandering in Puerto Madero.
Decently priced spots for dinner:
  • Cumaná – Recoleta; Rodriguez Peña 1149; 4813-9207 – the highlight are cazuelas, or pots full of baked deliciousness. Also sporting great pizzas, empanadas and other traditional Argentine food. It’s casual, with packed seating, bright colors and lots of noise.
  • Sarkis – Palermo; Thames 1101; 4772-4911 – Arabic food. A nice change from the standard fare, and at great prices. Warning: due to the massive quantities of garlic in all the dishes, this is not a date night spot!
  • Enfundá la Mandolina – Palermo; Salguero 1440; 4822-4479 – Featuring regional Argentine foods that come in jars and pots and other odd containers. Navigating the menu is challenging since the dishes have traditional names, but everything we got was delicious so don’t be worried. They have a bizarre mix of decorations, resulting in a lively atmosphere.
Places you’ll splurge on but can still afford:
  • Il Ballo de Mattone – Palermo; Gorriti 5936; 4776-4247 – funky little Italian joint with kitchy-cute ambiance. They bring out a big chalkboard to read you the night’s menu.
  • Bar 6 – Palermo; Armenia 1676; 4833-6807; – An interesting old warehouse that's been renovated with modern flair. Small but quality menu with meat, fish and some Asian-inspired plates. On the weekends go for lunch specials that include a main course with an appetizer or dessert. Really superb bread!
  • Los Loros – San Telmo; Estados Unidos 302, 4361-5539 – An eclectic global menu paired with a quality wine selection won my heart over. Also in a really cute part of town with very personal service.
Places to go if someone is visiting and has dollars
(make reservations):
  • Las Lilas – Puerto Madero; Alicia Moreau de Justo 516; 4313-1336; – if you’ve been reading guidebooks, you’ve probable heard of Las Lilas already since it’s awarded "Best Restaurant in Buenos Aires" by a few different sources. Ridiculously expensive, but completely amazing meat. Make sure you get the “complete" meal that includes all the sides, goodies, dessert and lemoncella. Oh, and if you’re really in the mood for something fancy, let the sommelier give you a personal wine recommendation from their extensive menu.
  • Sucre – Palermo/Belgrano; Sucre 676; 4782-9082 – Make sure to sit at the impressive bar and have a drink before dinner, because they have the most successfully creative cocktails in town. One of the few places I’m willing to label as “fine dining” in the city. It’s a destination location: slightly off the beaten path but you’ll be glad you sought it out.
  • La Cabrera – Palermo; Cabrera 5099; 4831-7002 – this is the most touristy spot I’ve managed to get attached to: but it’s an experience you can’t miss. They have 2 locations a block away from one another. You can’t make reservations so there’s always a crowd waiting outside. You won’t mind the 30 minute wait, though, since they give you glasses of champagne and little munchies. Be prepared for meat: giant chunks of beef arrive on huge slabs surrounded by pots of random side dishes. They always run very good wine specials, so just go for the featured Malbec. You’ll waddle out of there happy and full.
Fancy bars worth suffering though high heels:
  • Millión – Recoleta; Paraná 1048; 4815-9925 – Posh bar in an old French mansion. You can’t help but feel fancy sipping your drinks on the magestic staircase descending to a quaint outdoor garden. I’m not a huge fan of the food, but they do a decent job with the tapa-style appetizers.
  • El Gran Bar Danzon – Recoleta; Libertad 1161; 4811-1108 – This could be one of my most favorite spots in the city. They have low lighting, swanky lounge music and an impressive quantity of wines by the glass which come with little informational tags attached. They also serve elegant food from a teeny tiny menu that changes every time I visit. You cannot go wrong with the steak dish. Also, hit them up Wednesday night from 8 to 10pm for happy hour when they have 2 for one wine specials and live jazz (make a reservation or go early since it fills up fast).
It’s freaking hot and I just need a damn drink:
  • Bangalore – Palermo; Humboldt 1416; 4779-2621 – This place rocks because you can get jars of gin and tonic that make drinking a fun shared activity. Lots of wood and a lively pub feel. Apparently they have good Indian food too, but I’ve always too interested in the beverages to give it a try.
  • Sugar – Palermo; Costa Rica 4619 – This is a serious expat bar so don’t expect to practice your Spanish. However, they’re a solid solution for events like the Superbowl or when you’re craving nachos. And the beer is $5 pesos until midnight. What’s not to love?
  • Acabar – Palermo; Honduras 5733; 477-0845 – Enjoy your beverages with friends in a lively, kitchy-cool old factory turned bar. This is an awesome group place featuring a collection of games including giant, wobbly, wooden Janga pieces. The food is inexpensive and cheap, too.
  • The Oldest – Caballito; Ambrosetti 31; 4902-3188 – If you find yourself in Caballito, this is a solid choice. Go for beer and popcorn or they have a nice drink selection to pair with delicious tablas (like meat and cheese platters). Also perfect for an afternoon snack and strong Irish coffee.
No one sleeps in Argentina:
  • Levitar – Palermo; Godoy Cruz 1715 – Not quite a bar, not quite a boliche, Levitar is a happy medium. It’s got a cozy chic atmosphere with a fresh outdoor patio for sipping drinks and a separate room with a rockin’ DJ and dancing. Good spot to swing through around midnight or 1am pre-boliche.
  • Kika – Palermo; Honduras 5339 – Don’t laugh, but Kika is my favorite boliche because it’s well-ventilated. That’s way more important than you can imagine in this humidity. Two rooms, one with electronica and the other with reggaeton and latin music. It’s also a convenient ending point since it's in the center of Palermo nightlife. Don't bother showing up until at least 2am or later.
  • Museum – San Telmo; Perú 535; 4771-9628 – If you don’t have to work Thursday, this is the place to be Wednesday night. It’s the only night that you can go out early and start dancing at 10pm to midnight, and they often have live bands. Get cute since it's a fashionable scene in a gorgeous building and you'll see lots of suits there for after-office. Try and sneek into VIP on the 2nd and 3rd floor. If it's not Wednesday, don't bother arriving until at least 2am.
And no list would be complete without my favorite joint for pizza and empanadas:
  • Cambalache – Juncal 2601; 4824-2219 – This is a hole-in-the-wall spot with zero ambiance, so call for delivery or swing in and grab your empanadas to go. They have a few unique and completely delicious “special” empanadas that aren’t the standard fair. Since this recommendation is coming from me, be prepared for massive quantities of delicious oozing cheese.
Hints: Look things up on this interactive Buenos Aires map and figure out how to get there with Como Viajo.
If you've found my mini-guide lacking, the best online food guide for Buenos Aires is Guia Oleo (most of the spots above are listed).

Call-out to my expat friends: what are your favorite spots? I’m always interested in restaurant and bar recommendations.