Thankful

This weekend I went on a magical dream vacation! Layne, my little friend from Arkansas with her sweet southern twang, and I went to Mendoza. It’s the wine-growing region here in Argentina, close to Chile at the base of the Andes Mountains. It’s famous for the amazing Malbec wine produced there, and rightly so because it’s delicious! The wine was, of course, what lured me there, but the city is completely captivating as well.

Mendoza’s tranquil tree-lined streets are a welcome contrast to my own busy city. They have a charming park with giant gurgling fountains, and a pedestrian street with a canopy of green and a myriad of outdoor dining options. Layne and I wandered all over the city center, which was feasible since it’s fairly small, peeking into tourist shops, perusing the artesian vendors and grabbing drinks at patio tables. We had a killer hotel, very cute and mod and we discovered our first day there that they had an empty Jacuzzi on the top floor of the building. Due to the heat, we commenced to fill it to the top with freezing cold water, climbed in, and downed a bottle of Rose while gazing at the Andes in the distance and chattering about boys, life, love and the bright promises of the future. It was idyllic.

On day 2 we had a wine tour booked and our adorable guide, Julia, showed up bright and early to whisk us off to wine land. We started at the Finca Decero winery where we had the luxury of touring a brand-new facility. The tour was incredible, and I felt like I learned a lot about the wine-making process and the grapes here in Argentina. It was also very educational to see all of the newest equipment available. Everything they used was pristine, stainless steel, perfect condition. Their philosophy is “amano” which means “by hand” and they worked very hard to integrate this branding into the construction of the winery. The vineyards and the views were incomparable; the mountains in the distance gave it a magical feeling. The day couldn’t have started out better!

We then got to taste their wines, which were phenomenal. I purchased a bottle of their Malbec, but their blend was also amazing even though I couldn’t afford to take it home! In addition, I had the opportunity to try a 100% petit verdot, which might not mean much to many people, but it’s normally a blending grape, so tasting this varietal was a treat for me.

Next we went to Achaval Ferrer, which is a winery that does a lot of exporting to the US. Their wines were pretty expensive, but very good and we were able to taste three different Malbecs. My favorite was the Mirador, a big spicy accosting wine. Yum! Each were 100% Malbec varietals, but tasted completely different based on where they had been grown and the composition of the soil in that region. It was very interesting! I enjoyed the compare and contrast lesson.

For our third winery, we headed to Ruca Malen. We had another wine tour there, and then sat down to a lovely six-course meal with wine pairings. The little outdoor patio where we ate was divine, with a breeze blowing big white curtains and vineyards surrounding us. I couldn’t have asked for better company either; by the third winery Julia, myself and Layne were absolute chatterboxes and thoroughly enjoyed one another’s company.

Finally, we visited a tiny hidden little winery, called Carmelo Patti. Carmelo himself, since he is one of their only two employees, gave us a tour. The reason I enjoyed this tour so much was that everything there is genuinely made by hand. In contrast to the first place we visited, which was brand new, sparkling and clean, Carmelo’s winery was old, with Malbec-stained walls and ancient concrete vats to ferment the wine. It had that charm that antiques possess, and after our tour I wasn’t the least surprised to discover his wine was meticulously crafted. Beautiful, soft flavors with complex subtlety: the man is an artist. It was the only place without a tour in English, so I happily contented myself with his romantic wine explanations in Spanish.

That night Layne and I went to dinner at a place called Winery, a wine-store chain with locations throughout the country. It was one of the best meals I’ve had here: perfectly cooked short ribs with a divine red-wine sauce accompanied by a beautiful Syrah. Such perfection is hard to find and I assure you we savored it on that little patio covered in flowering vines, serenaded by a fountain and mod lounge music. Bliss.

Of course, I eventually had to come home. Which meant an 18-hour bus ride. This sounds horrific, but it wasn’t too bad. The buses here are amazingly comfortable, and you can put your seat back so it’s almost like a bed. Fairly luxurious, all things considered! On Tuesday I started my new job and it’s exactly as expected. Easy but steady and secure. I’m grateful for the work and I think I’ll be happy there for now. My co-workers are all really sweet and young as well, so that’s always a good bonus. This Sunday I make my big move too! Lots of excitement happening in Amber-land.

Well, today is Thanksgiving. I don’t think I’ve ever felt more apathetic about a holiday. It could just be the heat. It’s sweltering here right now. I woke up sweating. The so-called “holiday season” is upon us, and I can’t seem to get excited in any fashion. In fact, it just seems odd to gaze into shop windows and see Christmas trees and snowmen ornaments. Like my iPod accidentally started playing Jingle Bells in July while I was in my swimsuit driving to the beach. Just doesn’t seem quite right, you know? The good part about this is that I don’t feel sad. Confused maybe, nostalgic, yes… but sad? No. It all seems to me more of a curious phenomenon than something I’m actually missing. I might shed a tear or two today when I talk to my mom, but overall I’m really too hot and too busy to care much at all.

So when it’s time to say what you’re grateful for this thanksgiving, I recommend sending some love out to your air conditioner. I’ll content myself with giving thanks for fabulous wine :)

Engrossed in a Book

The apartment where I currently live is full of books. Most of them are not novels, but works of literature, from famous Latin American authors like Borges or Paublo Nerudo. Collections of short stories and poems line the shelves. I’ve been enchanted by this impressive collection, but haven’t made much progress through the pages. I attempted a book of short stories in Spanish and was convinced the author had written a story about a giant whale that fell from the sky and landed in the middle of Buenos Aires, spewing blood down the streets. Charming, no? Really, I couldn’t understand the book very well, although I finished it. Since I’m here I’ve felt obligated to read in Spanish and so I’ve labored through books and magazines, but haven’t found that quiet respite that a good book brings to it’s reader.

Then a few days ago I was perusing the shelves and an ancient little novel caught my eye. Around the World in 80 Days. I had read it as a teenager, and I quickly grabbed it and hid it away, because not only did it promise a little adventure, but it’s in English. So I’m reading this divine little story and it’s completely enthralled me. I’ve been reading on the bus, on the subte, as I wait for my classes, standing in line waiting in the incomparably slow government offices… I can’t let it go. Because it’s an absolute treat. It’s completely delighted me. I’m almost done now and I can’t help but mourn the end of the book, because I want to keep reading forever. This tiny, old tattered book has returned me to my childhood, when I learned the secret of walking and reading as a teenager because I could never put down my book. The bus driver who took me to middle school would worry I’d fall down the bus steps because my eyes wouldn’t leave the pages. Truly, a good book is a tiny blissful blessing. Loves it!

Hey, I've got some big news!

I’ve been in Argentina for a little over four months now and it’s been an interesting start to my voyage. I feel like I have made a serious effort to establish myself here, but it’s been challenging and teaching English just hasn’t been paying the bills. So I’ve been working on making adjustments to improve my little life!

First, I got a job!!! A “real” job working in an office for a place called Lead to Realty. It’s a US company that matches real estate buyers and sellers with agents. I’ll start out as a customer service representative and the vision is that I will be able to move around in the company if I do well. They are expanding the business right now so it’s a perfect time to join in. For me, the major benefit of this job is stability. I’ll receive a steady paycheck, and I will be able to go to one (air conditioned!) place all day every day! I appreciate a professional atmosphere, so I think it will be nice for me to have a job where I am taken seriously. I’ll also be legal which means medical benefits and paid days off! Pretty luxurious! I start the 25^th so I’m sure I’ll have lots more to say later. Right now I’m trying to get paperwork for my visa… aahhh! Huge hassle, made worse by the fact that I’m gathering US documents from Argentina. It will probably be a couple of months before everything is acquired and processed, but once I accomplish it, my life will be a lot easier: I’ll get paid more and I’ll start receiving my benefits. Whoo! Then I can go to the dentist!

Second, I found a new place to live!! While the boys I live with are lovely people, I’m ready for a girly house. And I found one! I’m moving in with two Argentine girls, both my age, who are in their last year of college. They are very, very nice and the house feels like a nice little home. It’s a bit smaller and has more character than the place I am in now, but it’s SO much quieter, in a more residential neighborhood and it’s cheaper. They also have a sad old cat who is loosing all of her hair. Bonus: they only speak Spanish so I’m going to get a little more practice. I think it’s a much better fit for me than my current living situation, so I’m pretty excited.

Third, I’m going on vacation next weekend. It’s my last “hurrah” before settling in and getting serious with work. Layne and I are going wine tasting in Mendoza. It’s going to be quiet and relaxing. We’re going to eat too much and drink too much and talk about girly things like shoes all weekend long. Completely divine! Expect pictures.

That’s all my news for the moment, wish me luck! Lots of big changes (and challenges, I’m sure) coming up for me. Truly, it’s a step in the right direction. I’m doing the best to pull together all the parts my life to make it something I enjoy living.

A little bit of everything (including muskrats)

Sarah, this is YOUR pet!!!

Let’s start this blog with the ZOO! They’ve got a zoo here in Buenos Aires and it’s pretty awful. They don’t have a hippopotamus and their elephants look like they are about to expire. Actually, most of the animals looked pretty pathetic. However, there is one animal that is alive and thriving: the muskrat. At least that’s what I think those giant rodents were. Not only are the muskrats healthy: they are abundant. Here in Argentina they don’t think rodents the size of dogs should be in a cage. Oh, no, let them run free all over the park. So, everywhere we looked there were giant muskrats sitting on benches, cooling themselves under trees, taking a dip in the lake with the flamingos and eating peanuts out of children’s hands. Lovely!

El Alteneo: making Barne's and Noble look boring.

Other fun adventures for this month include visiting El Alteneo, which is a magnificent cathedral which was converted into a library. It’s one of the most peaceful, gorgeous locations I’ve found in the city. Perfect for hiding in a book! Also, I’ve been enjoying the pretty plazas here in Argentina now that the weather is so nice. Perfect spring afternoons for sitting outside and drinking a glass of champagne!

Lane and I, about to go get some drinks!

Finally, we silly Americans decided to give Halloween a try here in Argentina. It was loads of fun riding the bus wearing devil’s ears. Despite the lack of candy corn, we managed to all look ridiculous and enjoy one another’s company.

Me, wearing my devil's ears that were made from a plastic pasta wrapper, Natalie with her home-made hippie costume and Nina who is... uh... a superhero?

"Worst-Case Scenario" Vacation

You know that little voice inside your head that sometimes whispers to you “self, is this REALLY a good idea?” That voice? It’s always right. So why on earth do we ignore it, huh? I’ve got a fabulous example for you:

Last weekend I went on a disaster vacation. It was a last-minute decision: myself and five other friends threw caution to the wind and booked a trip with some random travel agency. Hey, it was the only place that we could find accommodations two days before Oktoberfest. All the hotels in the tiny city of Villa General Belgrano, outside of Cordoba, were booked up so we figured this was the next-best option. When I talked to the travel agent, it did sound a little “rustic” and I felt slightly worried… but all my friends were going and I figured, “What the hell? It will be fun!"

Sam and I: ignorance is bliss.

It started out just lovely. We left Friday night and slept on a big, comfy bus. They showed stupid movies in English, we drank wine and chatted excitedly. About 9 am the next morning we arrived to the “camp” where we were staying. It was cute! Exactly like summer camp as a child: bunk beds in cabins, a big eating area, little ducks running around and a giant bar-b-q. Aside from the fact that I had to take a cold shower and there was only one bathroom for 20 girls, it wasn’t too bad. The problem, though, was our bus couldn’t get to the campground. It was down a long, bumpy dirt road. Instead, we had to be shuttled down the road in groups, which turned out to be a giant pain. Group one had to load up and be dropped off, then the bus had to come back to get group two. This added about an hour onto any destination. Despite the inconvenient shuttle system, it still seemed like the weekend had lots of potential and we started off in high spirits.

Natalie likes animals (even ugly, molting chickens).

The first day at the campground was spectacularly warm and sunny. Girls were lying out in little bikinis and people were sweating as they drank their beers and played ping pong. We were supposed to leave at 2pm for Oktoberfest, however since this is Argentina and time is simply NOT an issue, we didn’t leave until about 4:30. Then we had to go in groups on the stupid shuttle, so by the time we all got on the bus it was about 5:30 and we were hungry, grumpy and hot. Then the bus had to stop for gas. At last we got on the road for the big event. We had been told that our campground was about an hour from the festival. This was a LIE. It took about 2 hours to get there and by the time we arrived it was about 7:30 and starting to get dark. Not just dark, but cold and drizzly too. Since the day had been so warm, no one had thought to bring jackets. We were dressed in little skirts and t-shirts, happily ignorant of any weather concerns.

The festival was fabulous. We arrived to dancing, singing and overall merriment. Thrilled to finally be there we immediately purchased giant beer mugs and filled them with delicious sweet dark beer. Starving, we ordered polish hot dogs stuffed with cheese, wrapped in ham and topped with mounds of sauerkraut. My friend Layne and I sat down at a table and began devouring our food. It started raining and I looked at her and said, “I am so hungry I don’t even care that it’s raining!” With a little giggle, she agreed “I know! I’m starving! It doesn’t even matter.” But then I noticed my bun was getting soggy, because the rain was becoming more insistent. The drops were getting larger and both my food and I were getting wetter and wetter. I finally caved, “I think we better move!” We got up and just as we began moving towards shelter, the sky started dumping buckets of water on us. The nearest cover was a tacky little plastic table with an inadequate plastic umbrella. We attempted to huddle underneath it, but rain rolled down my back and down Layne’s arms. We watched, horrified, as people ran helter-skelter, holding chairs over their heads and climbing underneath tables. It was a mess. And it didn’t stop. The rain continued all night long. During a brief respite we reunited with the rest of our friends and we all attempted to make the best of the situation, drinking and laughing and trying to have positive attitudes. But reality exists: it was cold, we were wet, and our bus didn’t leave until midnight.

When it was finally time to leave we were more than happy to climb aboard the bus and head back to camp. Visions of a warm cabin and dry clothes filled our fuzzy little beer-heads. After the two-hour drive back to the campground the first group crawled onto the little shuttle, freezing and huddling together to try and stay warm. I sat shivering next to my friend Sam as we started down the dirt road. But we didn’t get too far: the bus got stuck! We sat there in despair as the wheels spun in the mud. After a miserable 45 minutes it was obvious that the situation was completely hopeless and we returned to the bus. They put on a movie and told us to just wait tight.

The problem, of course, was there were no hotels because it was Oktoberfest. So after a night of phone calls the trip coordinators finally secured a dump for us to stay at. Of course it wasn’t ready, so we took shelter in a very classy Shell station where we waited for 4 hours drinking coffee and wishing it wasn’t 5am. At last we headed to our dirty, smelly hotel where we continued waiting for another few hours. About 11am myself and my two girlfriends, Natalie and Layne, got a room. Layne bought some soap and we showered and fell into bed, grateful regardless of the pathetic accommodations. When we woke up we were pleased to discover that our things had been recovered from the campground and brought to the hotel. Despite some fear and trepidation we were going to return to Oktoberfest again that night, so we got ready. This time we were prepared! Coats, extra changes of clothing, pillows, blankets and provisions filled our bags!

Oktoberfest the second night was much more fun. We rode a ridiculous ride where you stood in the middle of a giant gyrating circle that threw you onto the floor and gave you bruises. While it was the worst ride I have ever ridden, it made us all collapse in giggles and amazement. That would have been a lawsuit in the US for sure! We listened to the music, chatted, drank and took lots of pictures. I managed to lose my mug and was completely devastated, but overall the night was a success.

Layne and I lovin' it! So sad about the mug...

The next morning they loaded us on the bus. We were hung-over, tired and worn-out from the traumatic weekend, but we were to be compensated by going horseback riding. While that part was fun, the fact that we were stuck in the middle of a camp for 4 hours without food or water was not so entertaining. We returned to the hotel and were greeted with the worst bar-b-q I have ever had in my entire life. Ah, yes: luxury accommodations.

My favorite people: Layne, Daniel, Natalie, Sam and, oh! Me!
(Charles, where are you?)

When it was finally time to go home, I won’t pretend I wasn’t thrilled. While it was good to get away from the bustle of city life for the weekend, it was more of an “experience” than a “vacation.” However, surviving it together created a myriad of stories my friends and I haven’t stopped laughing about since. Oh, and the impromptu dance party on the bus ride home was an extra bonus highlight…

American Politics in Argentina

My friend Teri and I:
I'm sitting on the floor since it's so crowded!

Friday I attended a showing of the Presidential Debates hosted by a “democrats abroad” group here in Buenos Aires. It was so much fun! The place was completely packed and I ended up sitting on the floor but had a great view. It was like watching the Superbowl at a bar: except much more political. People cheered. People booed! We had beer and pizza and scandalously criticized everything that was said.

Strangely enough, I actually think that I am following politics more here in Argentina than I did in the US. When I was single and in college I felt politically interested and aware, but when I lived and worked in the OC I just didn’t care much. I was too wrapped up in my little life. However, being here has re-awakened a curiosity about the world and my own home country. I actually spend a lot of time discussing world affairs with my students. They are all so incredibly intelligent and unique; I can bring up the same topic in a few of my different conversation classes and hear completely different perspectives. I absolutely love this! While I’m never going to be the most politically informed human, I definitely enjoy having it be a part of my little life.

And just in case you are wondering, I support Obama. I’ll be attending the absentee voting party October 8^th to send off my vote!

With just a hint of marvelous...

My sweet friends Natalie and Jessie at Vinos y Bodegas!
See my giant smile? I love wine!
(Please note the amazing tiger-stripe jacket that the woman behind me in the first photo is wearing. Gotta love Argentine fashion!)

I went to the most amazing event this month: Vinos y Bodegas.

I paid $30 pesos ($10 dollars) and received a cup I was able to fill with hundreds of options. There were at least 80 bodegas (vinyards) represented and each had a couple wines available to taste. I tried some amazing Malbecs and the white wine they make here, the Torrontés is also just divine! I felt so spoiled (and more than a little drunk). I now have a long list of things I want to drink again. Fabulous, delicious event!

Photos!

My favorite girlfriends: Natalie and Jessie!
This is the night that we watched Argentina win the Olympic Gold Metal for soccer while listing to a band a drinking lots and lots of ferrnet!

The other day, I was sitting on the couch and Branko, my roomie, yelled "Hey, look! The firemen are going to rescue that cat!" And they did. Go Argentine firemen!

My apartment here in Buenos Aires:
The view from my room, my homemade bedskirt
(I'm rather proud!) and my little corner of jewelry.

Subte Sensation

I would like to take a moment to talk about the Subte. This, for my loved ones back in the states, is the Metro or Subway here in Buenos Aires. Interestingly enough, I've never taken the Subway in the US, and I've only used the Metro in Europe a handful of times; so for me, the Subte experience is isolated and unique. It simply is what it is. And it's worth writing about.

Months ago, back when I was living my normal little American life, I would get in my car every day. It was the same experience every day. I mean, the weather might be different, I might be listening to different music; but on the whole I knew exactly what to expect from my daily commute.

This is not the case with the Subte. Each day I ride Line D, then switch to Line C to get to work. The experience lasts about 30 minutes (20 on a good day and 40 on a bad one!). Instead of being a controlled environment, I am at the mercy of the hordes of people flowing through public transportation each morning. Mondays are not so bad. I go to work early: leaving the house and entering Subte-land at about 7:30am. On Mondays I am brave enough to bring a cup of coffee and there is a possibility I will actually get to sit down. Claiming a seat on the Subte is like receiving an entire box of chocolate bon bons.

Tuesday through Thursday I enter the Subte at rush hour: 8:00am. Do not bring coffee. Leave your expectations at home. Try and take off your coat so you won't have sweat running down your back. Prepare to get squished. My body is sandwiched between countless others for a full 20 minutes. Elbows jabbing, old men grunting and pushing, people falling as we come careening to each stop. Some days I stand next to a woman, my nose so close to her that I can see each pore on her face. If I'm lucky she smells nice and I can look at her fascinating earrings and contemplate her hairstyle for the 20-minute ride. If I'm not lucky I'm pushed up against some large, smelly man wreaking of the night before, cigarettes, and morning breath. I'll attempt to advert my gaze from his dandruff-covered shoulders and hope desperately that the stench won't rub off. On days I'm really lucky I'll get to watch couples making out and groping one another (Argentines are unafraid of PDA), or a tiny child sleeping soundly on the seat, his little mouth open and drool running down his rosy cheeks.

So this is my tribute to the Subte. It touches me (literally) every day. It pushes me, shoves me, assails me with its smells, sight and sounds, but most important it gets me and the other throngs of Argentines to our destinations. As long as I don't get knocked over or touched by an armpit, I guess I can't really complain.

Just getting started...

My favorite: Natalie. She's keeping me sane!

Well, it’s been a bit of a process. I spent a month in school, enjoying friends and stressing over the workload and the uncertainty of my adventure. Then I began to have panic attacks realizing that the end of school meant I needed a job.

After the first few days of job hunting I became acutely aware that business here in Argentina is conducted completely different than in the USA. While employers in my country are very organized, professional and reliable, the employers here in Argentina are incredibly friendly, warm, unorganized, difficult to contact and “fluid” about their business. Remarkably, they accomplish everything that needs to be done; just not in the way and on the time schedule I’m accustomed to. This means that job searching was very stressful for me when I first started. People didn’t call me back. They said I had a job and then I didn’t. I went (go—this is still happening) to pick up materials and I’ve got half of what I need, or the wrong thing. No one has the books they are supposed to.

After the first week of my job search I discovered that relaxing was not only a good idea; but a survival technique here in Argentina. I surrendered my expectations and my timeline and began to try and just have faith that if I went on lots on interviews, smiled pretty and kept up my normal work ethic I would eventually be working sufficient hours to cover my rent. So far, I’m doing pretty well. The schedule is awful, but I do have a job. People want their English classes early in the morning at 8:00 or 8:30 to 10:00, then at noon until about 2:00 and then in the evenings after 6:00. This means that yesterday I worked from 8:30am until 9:00pm and only managed to log in 6 hours of work. Three large breaks in my day makes it disappear in an uncomfortable fashion; but I’m going with the flow. As time continues, I hope that I’ll be able to fill in the gaps with extra classes. Right now I’m working about 18 hours a week and I’m hoping that in the next month or so I can increase those hours to around 25 to 30. We will see! It’s not hard to get classes, but it IS hard to get classes that coordinate as far as scheduling goes. I’ve got all the prime hours filled; now it’s a matter of waiting for the “off-hours” classes to turn up and being the candidate that receives those classes. While patience is not a virtue of mine; it appears to be essential. Let’s call this mandatory personal development.

Me in my new room!

Along with the job search, concurrently I was looking for an apartment. This was also quite the endeavor as most places are owned by a landlord who rents out to students and does the most minimal upkeep possible. I saw some completely filthy living spaces.

I’ve ended up with three male roomies: an Argentine, a Canadian, and one other man from Holland. While living with lots of men sounds little scary, they are very, very mellow. I’ve appreciated the lack of drama, and everyone is very independent and busy. Aside from the fact that my room is above a noisy street and I need earplugs at night, I like my place! Bonus: I have my own bathroom and a full-size bed (this is an absolute treasure here in Argentina)!

My Argentine roommate Adolfo on our patio.

So that is the update. I’m getting sick again so I’ve been sucking down orange juice in my favorite café this morning. Love that OJ here is ALWAYS fresh-squeezed. I still feel like I’m adjusting, but the pieces are slowly falling into place. As exciting as it has been arriving here, doing things that are hard in America (job hunting, house hunting) has been even more difficult here and I’m feeling a little exhausted as well. I miss everyone and I’m so sad I am not on vacation with the rest of my family right now! Have extra fun for me guys! Un beso grande a todos!

Real Life?

Celebrating the last day of class!

Well, I've finished my TEFL course... and now it's time to start "real life" here in Buenos Aires.

First: I finally found an apartment! I had to look at many, many dirty, disgusting places to find a decent spot, but I really like it. I'll have 3 roommates, all guys, from Argentina, Holland and Canada. Very international house. The selling point was the big bed and my own bathroom! So I'm excited about that; I move in on the 10th of this month.

Second: Now I need a job to pay my rent each month! I've got interviews set up tomorrow and Friday, so hopefully I'll be working soon. It should be interesting, since this is a completely new career path for me. I'm sure I'll have some stories.

Third: Fun! Hoping I have some time to get out and see the tourist spots here in Buenos Aires. I've met some fabulous people already and we are planning to have lots and lots of fun this year. Woot woot!

Uruguay with my roomie Fran

Little Tourist

The Recoleta Cemetery. Graveyards at this cemetery are leased, so if the family of the deceased does not continue to pay, the body is thrown out and the grave demolished. Talk about leaving a legacy.

La Boca is a fun, touristy part of Buenos Aires. It's a working class neighborhood, famous for the brightly colored houses and the strong tango culture.

Ok, so maybe I'm having a little bit of fun...

This weekend I looked out the window of the 15th-story Cuppola where I was listening to my Argentinian friends play guitars and sing tango canciones as the sun was rising over this big, energetic, foreign city and I thought, "I live here. It's real."