Secret: Making New Friends.

Just ask.
That’s the secret to making new friends.

For me, that was not an instinctive action. Making new friends was never my forte. While I fiercely love the people I’m close to, I have a tendency to hold tight to a small group and not bother with expansion. I have my golden social moments, but I’m a classic introvert at heart.

However, something interesting happened when I moved to Argentina: I was all alone. Mom is a continent away. My childhood friends, my college roomie, my entire emotional support system: all on the other side of the world. Now, don’t get me wrong, I’m more than happy at home alone with a glass of wine and a good book. However, sometimes it’s good to get outside and see the sunshine and revel in that bonding feeling. We need people. We need relationships in our lives. So I had to figure out how to meet people.

After 26 years and more moves than I can count, I’ve finally learned to make friends. You know what I discovered? The easiest way to make friends is to ask. That’s a little scary. At least for me it was. Asking people if they wanted to be my friend? Inviting them to enter my little world? Approaching them and striking up conversation? That’s not what comes naturally to me. Yet out of necessity I started doing it. Shockingly enough, when I started asking, people said “yes.” They liked me. They wanted to hang out. Little by little, I made friends and developed a support system.

After nearly two years in Argentina, I’ve created lifetime friendships. Along the way I uncovered the magic truth that it's ok to ask people to be your friend. I'll be sad to leave the people I love here. However, I'm comforted because I've learned a very cool lesson that I can apply when I return to the states to start from scratch and build a whole new network all over again: Just ask.

Oh, and if someone reaches out and asks you?
Make sure to say “yes!”

The Closing

Official announcement: I’ll be back stateside April 7th. This means I’ve arrived a new part of my expat experience: the closing. I can feel myself quietly shutting down my little life here. Internally I’ve got an interesting mix of nostalgia, excitement and dread happening inside my busy little head.

It’s making me slightly apathetic. Since people always come and go in expat-land I’ve been on a crusade to make new friends for the last year and a half. Now that I’m the one leaving? I’m not trying anymore. No more obligatory social events. I haven’t had much luck dating in this country, so I’m giving that up too. No more disaster dates. And you know what? I don’t really feel like staying up until 7am anymore. I did that plenty of times. I don’t have to keep participating unless I’m inspired. It’s a liberating moment: I’m just doing my thing.

Of course, the closing is a moment on my journey and I’ll have to revive efforts and build a new life in the US come April. But until then, I want to enjoy the people I love here and savor these last little moments. I’ll definitely miss my life here in Buenos Aires. The return is wonderful, but the closing is sad.

Thirsty? Hungry? Eating & Drinking in Buenos Aires.

Lately I’ve been playing tour guide quite a bit, and I was inspired to make a list of all the restaurants and bars I recommend in Buenos Aires. Since I love to eat and I love to drink, well, I think I've got some good spots on my list. By no means extensive, this list only includes places I’ve actually visited, but my list of places I want to try is even longer! Hopefully I’ll keep eating my way through this city and get to make additions.

Getting started: Breakfast and Lunch

• Oui Oui – Palermo; Nicaragua 6068; 4778-9614 – French/American. Small, cute cozy atmosphere. They have delicious lemonade, real bacon and big cups of coffee. I adore this spot!
• Como en Casa – Recoleta; Laprida 1782; 4829-0624 – Truly decadent cakes and pies make this little corner coffee shop/bakery an absolute treasure. They’ve also got great lunch goodies (salads, sandwiches, etc).
• Crocante – Caballito; Senillosa 98; 4983-6878 – Adorable little café tucked away in Caballito, which is not part of the normal tourist circut and therefore has great prices. They feature aromatic pasteries and the tortas (similar to a quiché) are to die for. If you're in the area, don't miss it.
  
• iCentral Market – Puerto Madero; P. Dealessi; 5775-030 – This is an amazing spot for extremely expensive coffee. It’s adorable inside and out and the lady's bathroom is wink pink. I’ve never eaten a full meal here but it’s a perfect for sweets and a caffeine boost while meandering in Puerto Madero.

Decently priced spots for dinner:

• Cumaná – Recoleta; Rodriguez Peña 1149; 4813-9207 – the highlight are cazuelas, or pots full of baked deliciousness. Also sporting great pizzas, empanadas and other traditional Argentine food. It’s casual, with packed seating, bright colors and lots of noise.
• Sarkis – Palermo; Thames 1101; 4772-4911 – Arabic food. A nice change from the standard fare, and at great prices. Warning: due to the massive quantities of garlic in all the dishes, this is not a date night spot!
• Enfundá la Mandolina – Palermo; Salguero 1440; 4822-4479 – Featuring regional Argentine foods that come in jars and pots and other odd containers. Navigating the menu is challenging since the dishes have traditional names, but everything we got was delicious so don’t be worried. They have a bizarre mix of decorations, resulting in a lively atmosphere.

Places you’ll splurge on but can still afford:

• Il Ballo de Mattone – Palermo; Gorriti 5936; 4776-4247 – funky little Italian joint with kitchy-cute ambiance. They bring out a big chalkboard to read you the night’s menu.
• Bar 6 – Palermo; Armenia 1676; 4833-6807; – An interesting old warehouse that's been renovated with modern flair. Small but quality menu with meat, fish and some Asian-inspired plates. On the weekends go for lunch specials that include a main course with an appetizer or dessert. Really superb bread!
• Los Loros – San Telmo; Estados Unidos 302, 4361-5539 – An eclectic global menu paired with a quality wine selection won my heart over. Also in a really cute part of town with very personal service.

Places to go if someone is visiting and has dollars
(make reservations):

• Las Lilas – Puerto Madero; Alicia Moreau de Justo 516; 4313-1336; – if you’ve been reading guidebooks, you’ve probable heard of Las Lilas already since it’s awarded "Best Restaurant in Buenos Aires" by a few different sources. Ridiculously expensive, but completely amazing meat. Make sure you get the “complete" meal that includes all the sides, goodies, dessert and lemoncella. Oh, and if you’re really in the mood for something fancy, let the sommelier give you a personal wine recommendation from their extensive menu.
• Sucre – Palermo/Belgrano; Sucre 676; 4782-9082 – Make sure to sit at the impressive bar and have a drink before dinner, because they have the most successfully creative cocktails in town. One of the few places I’m willing to label as “fine dining” in the city. It’s a destination location: slightly off the beaten path but you’ll be glad you sought it out.
• La Cabrera – Palermo; Cabrera 5099; 4831-7002 – this is the most touristy spot I’ve managed to get attached to: but it’s an experience you can’t miss. They have 2 locations a block away from one another. You can’t make reservations so there’s always a crowd waiting outside. You won’t mind the 30 minute wait, though, since they give you glasses of champagne and little munchies. Be prepared for meat: giant chunks of beef arrive on huge slabs surrounded by pots of random side dishes. They always run very good wine specials, so just go for the featured Malbec. You’ll waddle out of there happy and full.

Fancy bars worth suffering though high heels:

• Millión – Recoleta; Paraná 1048; 4815-9925 – Posh bar in an old French mansion. You can’t help but feel fancy sipping your drinks on the magestic staircase descending to a quaint outdoor garden. I’m not a huge fan of the food, but they do a decent job with the tapa-style appetizers.
• El Gran Bar Danzon – Recoleta; Libertad 1161; 4811-1108 – This could be one of my most favorite spots in the city. They have low lighting, swanky lounge music and an impressive quantity of wines by the glass which come with little informational tags attached. They also serve elegant food from a teeny tiny menu that changes every time I visit. You cannot go wrong with the steak dish. Also, hit them up Wednesday night from 8 to 10pm for happy hour when they have 2 for one wine specials and live jazz (make a reservation or go early since it fills up fast).

It’s freaking hot and I just need a damn drink:

• Bangalore – Palermo; Humboldt 1416; 4779-2621 – This place rocks because you can get jars of gin and tonic that make drinking a fun shared activity. Lots of wood and a lively pub feel. Apparently they have good Indian food too, but I’ve always too interested in the beverages to give it a try.
• Sugar – Palermo; Costa Rica 4619 – This is a serious expat bar so don’t expect to practice your Spanish. However, they’re a solid solution for events like the Superbowl or when you’re craving nachos. And the beer is $5 pesos until midnight. What’s not to love?
• Acabar – Palermo; Honduras 5733; 477-0845 – Enjoy your beverages with friends in a lively, kitchy-cool old factory turned bar. This is an awesome group place featuring a collection of games including giant, wobbly, wooden Janga pieces. The food is inexpensive and cheap, too.
• The Oldest – Caballito; Ambrosetti 31; 4902-3188 – If you find yourself in Caballito, this is a solid choice. Go for beer and popcorn or they have a nice drink selection to pair with delicious tablas (like meat and cheese platters). Also perfect for an afternoon snack and strong Irish coffee.
  

No one sleeps in Argentina:

• Levitar – Palermo; Godoy Cruz 1715 – Not quite a bar, not quite a boliche, Levitar is a happy medium. It’s got a cozy chic atmosphere with a fresh outdoor patio for sipping drinks and a separate room with a rockin’ DJ and dancing. Good spot to swing through around midnight or 1am pre-boliche.
• Kika – Palermo; Honduras 5339 – Don’t laugh, but Kika is my favorite boliche because it’s well-ventilated. That’s way more important than you can imagine in this humidity. Two rooms, one with electronica and the other with reggaeton and latin music. It’s also a convenient ending point since it's in the center of Palermo nightlife. Don't bother showing up until at least 2am or later.
• Museum – San Telmo; Perú 535; 4771-9628 – If you don’t have to work Thursday, this is the place to be Wednesday night. It’s the only night that you can go out early and start dancing at 10pm to midnight, and they often have live bands. Get cute since it's a fashionable scene in a gorgeous building and you'll see lots of suits there for after-office. Try and sneek into VIP on the 2nd and 3rd floor. If it's not Wednesday, don't bother arriving until at least 2am.
  

And no list would be complete without my favorite joint for pizza and empanadas:

• Cambalache – Juncal 2601; 4824-2219 – This is a hole-in-the-wall spot with zero ambiance, so call for delivery or swing in and grab your empanadas to go. They have a few unique and completely delicious “special” empanadas that aren’t the standard fair. Since this recommendation is coming from me, be prepared for massive quantities of delicious oozing cheese.

Hints: Look things up on this interactive Buenos Aires map and figure out how to get there with Como Viajo.
If you've found my mini-guide lacking, the best online food guide for Buenos Aires is Guia Oleo (most of the spots above are listed).

Call-out to my expat friends: what are your favorite spots? I’m always interested in restaurant and bar recommendations.