Thankful

This weekend I went on a magical dream vacation! Layne, my little friend from Arkansas with her sweet southern twang, and I went to Mendoza. It’s the wine-growing region here in Argentina, close to Chile at the base of the Andes Mountains. It’s famous for the amazing Malbec wine produced there, and rightly so because it’s delicious! The wine was, of course, what lured me there, but the city is completely captivating as well.

Mendoza’s tranquil tree-lined streets are a welcome contrast to my own busy city. They have a charming park with giant gurgling fountains, and a pedestrian street with a canopy of green and a myriad of outdoor dining options. Layne and I wandered all over the city center, which was feasible since it’s fairly small, peeking into tourist shops, perusing the artesian vendors and grabbing drinks at patio tables. We had a killer hotel, very cute and mod and we discovered our first day there that they had an empty Jacuzzi on the top floor of the building. Due to the heat, we commenced to fill it to the top with freezing cold water, climbed in, and downed a bottle of Rose while gazing at the Andes in the distance and chattering about boys, life, love and the bright promises of the future. It was idyllic.

On day 2 we had a wine tour booked and our adorable guide, Julia, showed up bright and early to whisk us off to wine land. We started at the Finca Decero winery where we had the luxury of touring a brand-new facility. The tour was incredible, and I felt like I learned a lot about the wine-making process and the grapes here in Argentina. It was also very educational to see all of the newest equipment available. Everything they used was pristine, stainless steel, perfect condition. Their philosophy is “amano” which means “by hand” and they worked very hard to integrate this branding into the construction of the winery. The vineyards and the views were incomparable; the mountains in the distance gave it a magical feeling. The day couldn’t have started out better!

We then got to taste their wines, which were phenomenal. I purchased a bottle of their Malbec, but their blend was also amazing even though I couldn’t afford to take it home! In addition, I had the opportunity to try a 100% petit verdot, which might not mean much to many people, but it’s normally a blending grape, so tasting this varietal was a treat for me.

Next we went to Achaval Ferrer, which is a winery that does a lot of exporting to the US. Their wines were pretty expensive, but very good and we were able to taste three different Malbecs. My favorite was the Mirador, a big spicy accosting wine. Yum! Each were 100% Malbec varietals, but tasted completely different based on where they had been grown and the composition of the soil in that region. It was very interesting! I enjoyed the compare and contrast lesson.

For our third winery, we headed to Ruca Malen. We had another wine tour there, and then sat down to a lovely six-course meal with wine pairings. The little outdoor patio where we ate was divine, with a breeze blowing big white curtains and vineyards surrounding us. I couldn’t have asked for better company either; by the third winery Julia, myself and Layne were absolute chatterboxes and thoroughly enjoyed one another’s company.

Finally, we visited a tiny hidden little winery, called Carmelo Patti. Carmelo himself, since he is one of their only two employees, gave us a tour. The reason I enjoyed this tour so much was that everything there is genuinely made by hand. In contrast to the first place we visited, which was brand new, sparkling and clean, Carmelo’s winery was old, with Malbec-stained walls and ancient concrete vats to ferment the wine. It had that charm that antiques possess, and after our tour I wasn’t the least surprised to discover his wine was meticulously crafted. Beautiful, soft flavors with complex subtlety: the man is an artist. It was the only place without a tour in English, so I happily contented myself with his romantic wine explanations in Spanish.

That night Layne and I went to dinner at a place called Winery, a wine-store chain with locations throughout the country. It was one of the best meals I’ve had here: perfectly cooked short ribs with a divine red-wine sauce accompanied by a beautiful Syrah. Such perfection is hard to find and I assure you we savored it on that little patio covered in flowering vines, serenaded by a fountain and mod lounge music. Bliss.

Of course, I eventually had to come home. Which meant an 18-hour bus ride. This sounds horrific, but it wasn’t too bad. The buses here are amazingly comfortable, and you can put your seat back so it’s almost like a bed. Fairly luxurious, all things considered! On Tuesday I started my new job and it’s exactly as expected. Easy but steady and secure. I’m grateful for the work and I think I’ll be happy there for now. My co-workers are all really sweet and young as well, so that’s always a good bonus. This Sunday I make my big move too! Lots of excitement happening in Amber-land.

Well, today is Thanksgiving. I don’t think I’ve ever felt more apathetic about a holiday. It could just be the heat. It’s sweltering here right now. I woke up sweating. The so-called “holiday season” is upon us, and I can’t seem to get excited in any fashion. In fact, it just seems odd to gaze into shop windows and see Christmas trees and snowmen ornaments. Like my iPod accidentally started playing Jingle Bells in July while I was in my swimsuit driving to the beach. Just doesn’t seem quite right, you know? The good part about this is that I don’t feel sad. Confused maybe, nostalgic, yes… but sad? No. It all seems to me more of a curious phenomenon than something I’m actually missing. I might shed a tear or two today when I talk to my mom, but overall I’m really too hot and too busy to care much at all.

So when it’s time to say what you’re grateful for this thanksgiving, I recommend sending some love out to your air conditioner. I’ll content myself with giving thanks for fabulous wine :)

Engrossed in a Book

The apartment where I currently live is full of books. Most of them are not novels, but works of literature, from famous Latin American authors like Borges or Paublo Nerudo. Collections of short stories and poems line the shelves. I’ve been enchanted by this impressive collection, but haven’t made much progress through the pages. I attempted a book of short stories in Spanish and was convinced the author had written a story about a giant whale that fell from the sky and landed in the middle of Buenos Aires, spewing blood down the streets. Charming, no? Really, I couldn’t understand the book very well, although I finished it. Since I’m here I’ve felt obligated to read in Spanish and so I’ve labored through books and magazines, but haven’t found that quiet respite that a good book brings to it’s reader.

Then a few days ago I was perusing the shelves and an ancient little novel caught my eye. Around the World in 80 Days. I had read it as a teenager, and I quickly grabbed it and hid it away, because not only did it promise a little adventure, but it’s in English. So I’m reading this divine little story and it’s completely enthralled me. I’ve been reading on the bus, on the subte, as I wait for my classes, standing in line waiting in the incomparably slow government offices… I can’t let it go. Because it’s an absolute treat. It’s completely delighted me. I’m almost done now and I can’t help but mourn the end of the book, because I want to keep reading forever. This tiny, old tattered book has returned me to my childhood, when I learned the secret of walking and reading as a teenager because I could never put down my book. The bus driver who took me to middle school would worry I’d fall down the bus steps because my eyes wouldn’t leave the pages. Truly, a good book is a tiny blissful blessing. Loves it!

Hey, I've got some big news!

I’ve been in Argentina for a little over four months now and it’s been an interesting start to my voyage. I feel like I have made a serious effort to establish myself here, but it’s been challenging and teaching English just hasn’t been paying the bills. So I’ve been working on making adjustments to improve my little life!

First, I got a job!!! A “real” job working in an office for a place called Lead to Realty. It’s a US company that matches real estate buyers and sellers with agents. I’ll start out as a customer service representative and the vision is that I will be able to move around in the company if I do well. They are expanding the business right now so it’s a perfect time to join in. For me, the major benefit of this job is stability. I’ll receive a steady paycheck, and I will be able to go to one (air conditioned!) place all day every day! I appreciate a professional atmosphere, so I think it will be nice for me to have a job where I am taken seriously. I’ll also be legal which means medical benefits and paid days off! Pretty luxurious! I start the 25^th so I’m sure I’ll have lots more to say later. Right now I’m trying to get paperwork for my visa… aahhh! Huge hassle, made worse by the fact that I’m gathering US documents from Argentina. It will probably be a couple of months before everything is acquired and processed, but once I accomplish it, my life will be a lot easier: I’ll get paid more and I’ll start receiving my benefits. Whoo! Then I can go to the dentist!

Second, I found a new place to live!! While the boys I live with are lovely people, I’m ready for a girly house. And I found one! I’m moving in with two Argentine girls, both my age, who are in their last year of college. They are very, very nice and the house feels like a nice little home. It’s a bit smaller and has more character than the place I am in now, but it’s SO much quieter, in a more residential neighborhood and it’s cheaper. They also have a sad old cat who is loosing all of her hair. Bonus: they only speak Spanish so I’m going to get a little more practice. I think it’s a much better fit for me than my current living situation, so I’m pretty excited.

Third, I’m going on vacation next weekend. It’s my last “hurrah” before settling in and getting serious with work. Layne and I are going wine tasting in Mendoza. It’s going to be quiet and relaxing. We’re going to eat too much and drink too much and talk about girly things like shoes all weekend long. Completely divine! Expect pictures.

That’s all my news for the moment, wish me luck! Lots of big changes (and challenges, I’m sure) coming up for me. Truly, it’s a step in the right direction. I’m doing the best to pull together all the parts my life to make it something I enjoy living.

A little bit of everything (including muskrats)

Sarah, this is YOUR pet!!!

Let’s start this blog with the ZOO! They’ve got a zoo here in Buenos Aires and it’s pretty awful. They don’t have a hippopotamus and their elephants look like they are about to expire. Actually, most of the animals looked pretty pathetic. However, there is one animal that is alive and thriving: the muskrat. At least that’s what I think those giant rodents were. Not only are the muskrats healthy: they are abundant. Here in Argentina they don’t think rodents the size of dogs should be in a cage. Oh, no, let them run free all over the park. So, everywhere we looked there were giant muskrats sitting on benches, cooling themselves under trees, taking a dip in the lake with the flamingos and eating peanuts out of children’s hands. Lovely!

El Alteneo: making Barne's and Noble look boring.

Other fun adventures for this month include visiting El Alteneo, which is a magnificent cathedral which was converted into a library. It’s one of the most peaceful, gorgeous locations I’ve found in the city. Perfect for hiding in a book! Also, I’ve been enjoying the pretty plazas here in Argentina now that the weather is so nice. Perfect spring afternoons for sitting outside and drinking a glass of champagne!

Lane and I, about to go get some drinks!

Finally, we silly Americans decided to give Halloween a try here in Argentina. It was loads of fun riding the bus wearing devil’s ears. Despite the lack of candy corn, we managed to all look ridiculous and enjoy one another’s company.

Me, wearing my devil's ears that were made from a plastic pasta wrapper, Natalie with her home-made hippie costume and Nina who is... uh... a superhero?