Ridiculoso

The 4-Stage New City Theory

2010-10-30T04:30:00.000-07:00

Here I am: San Francisco, CA. I landed a job as an Account Manager in an ad agency (yay!) and made the big move. The past two months have been total chaos - but I'm really making progress on the life project. So I got philosophical about it:

In the past 3 years I’ve lived in 11 places. Yup, I’m ready to get settled in and stay in one spot now. Being someone who has relocated to a new city many times, I’ve discovered that there are four stages to adjusting to a new place.

Stage 1: Love (1 to 3 months)
When you first arrive everything is new and exciting and amazing. It’s like being a tourist; for a short while you don’t have to notice anything negative and you don’t want to. You want to fall in love and there is so much to intake that you only bother processing the things you like. So many delicious places to eat! So much to explore! To see! To do! This is an adventure; it’s so exciting!

Stage 2: Hate (1 to 3 months)
Suddenly you realize that you can’t leave. You’re stuck in this place and (gasp!) it’s not perfect. You notice the dirty, the ugly and the inconvenient. You get a terrible haircut and miss all the little nuances that made the last place you lived special. You also begin to process the realities of your life and your situation. This isn’t a vacation nor an adventure: it’s real life. Boo.

Stage 3: Adjust (6 to 9 months)
You process your love and your hate. You learn to get around. You find a doctor, a hairstylist, a favorite coffee shop and your preferred bar. You learn how you personally fit into your new world and develop routines to make it comfortable. You nest into a home and begin to craft a social network. Hopefully you’ve got a job and you start to get the hang of it as well.

Stage 4: Thrive (Forever)
You’ve accepted the imperfect and figured out how your world functions. Now you’re ready to embrace the things that are unique and special about your city. This is when you find hidden gems and become a city guru. When people come to visit, you know all the cool spots and can play tour guide. You've got a social network now, and maybe a relationship. Life is good.

I’ve found that stages 1-3 always happen. Stage 4? Not always. You can adjust to a place and never really thrive there. That was me in Orange County. Yeah, I lived there for 2 years and had a life. Did I ever really start liking it? Nope. Argentina, on the other hand, was amazing for me. I got to do each stage in vivid color and found my groove.

I do recommend that you never leave a place in the Hate stage. You really have to give a city at least 6 months to a year in order to judge if it could be right for you.

Right now I'm optimistic about my move, but it takes time. There have been some overwhelming parts and I'm probably somewhere between Love and Hate right now and trying to be patient while I adjust. Life in SF has massive potential.

This 4-Stage New City Theory is based on my personal experience and has no real sociological foundation, so I’m curious to hear what you think. Have you experienced the same stages when adjusting to a new life?

Job hunting is like dating.

2010-08-18T22:26:00.000-07:00

Do they like me? Do I like them? Are we a good fit? Could this be the "the one?

The correlation between job hunting and dating struck me as I fretted over the fact that I didn't receive an offer post-interview last week. The truth of the matter? It wasn't the right fit. Maybe 80%. That's not good enough, self! I'm looking for a job that meets all my requirements. So why did I wait by the phone hoping for a call? It's basic human instinct: we want people to want us. Despite the fact that I didn't want that job I didn't want them to reject me. Oh, no. I wanted to be in control of my own destiny and choose to reject the offer. Classic dating story.

Since the job hunting/dating correlation is so vivid (at least in my mind) I've decided to continue the logic and apply some great dating advice to my job hunting. For example:

If they're not interested in you, it wasn't meant to be (apply advice to example above). It's not fun to hear "no" but we must make peace with reality and bravely accept rejection. If my prospective new employer isn't thrilled to have me on board, well… that's not where I'm meant to be… or where I want to be. I'm all about the situation where we're both excited I got the job.
Be yourself. So maybe I could charm an interviewer and tell them stories about imaginary feats. First of all, I'm a bad liar so that won't work. Second, if it did, I'd get caught as soon as the job began. Just like when you start dating: after a couple of months dirty secrets start coming out. It's only a matter of time. Be yourself from the beginning! Then it's much easier to identify a good match when it exists.
Be patient. Desperation is your worst enemy; be it the job hunt or the romantic chase. Think about how many people jump at the first offer and end up in a sub-par relationship. Like Mom always told you, just keep putting yourself out there and the right one will come along eventually. For me, this advice has been applicable: Since that job passed me up I've discovered other options with excellent potential. What if I had received an offer? What if I'd said "yes" out of desperation? WHERE would I be now? Headed for a break-up secondary job hunt in a year. Nope, better to wait for the right fit to come along so you can form a healthy long-term relationship.

What other pieces of dating advice apply to job hunting? I have a feeling this could just go on and on…

Patriotism lives in my iPod.

2010-08-09T21:14:00.000-07:00

Is there anything more red, white and blue American than country music? No. Nothing. Not peanut butter, not hamburgers. Country music represents the absolute essence of my personal patriotism.

I'm not a typical country music fan. See, I'm a city girl. However, despite the living locations I've chosen over the past 10 years, I'm originally from small-town America: Redding CA. That's pure NorCal. Here people drive pick-up trucks, talk about their horses and are proud of their prize cows. At least 4 of my relatives have chickens running around on their properties. Wearing Wanglers, boots and a shiny gold belt buckle is not a fashion crime; in fact you might get complimented. So, if you consider my roots I feel I have a genuine claim to be a country music fan.

It all started with Willie Nelson. When I was a little girl my Mom used to cue up "Stardust" whenever we departed for a road trip. I've got a nostalgic love for Willie now: in fact, when I lived in Argentina he made me cry. Actually, when I lived in Argentina most country music made me cry. That's because country music simply doesn't exist outside of the USA. The only way I would hear Willie or Shania or Sugarland was via my own personal importation. On days when I felt extra homesick, I'd navigate my iPod to a country mix while hustling through the streets of Buenos Aires. In those moments, I'd feel like my own culture flowed through me and gave me definition. No matter where I am, what language I speak or how I'm dressed some things will never change: I'm an American. And I've got an iPod full of country music to prove it.

Last week I had the great pleasure of attending a Toby Keith (and Trace Adkins!) concert. First of all, it was a blast because I went with my fantastic cousin Keri and made a couple new friends. Second, it was a bit of a personal celebration for me. I think that going to a country concert is about the most patriotic activity I've ever participated in.

We sat in the back of the pick-up truck tailgating and drinking whiskey while watching cutoff blue jeans and cowboy hats stroll by. But the most beautiful moment of the night was the finale: at the end of the concert Toby sang "Courtesy of the red, white, and blue" and suddenly a burst of flag-themed confetti flowed through the sky on the cool, dry NorCal breeze. It was a beautiful moment: Standing with my arms around my friends, listening to that deep voice singing about the USA I felt grateful. These are my roots and this is my culture, and I'm proud to admit I'm a country music fan. It might just be the most patriotic thing about me!

El Diccionario: an Argentine vocab compilation

2010-08-02T11:31:00.000-07:00

Working in an office filled with Argentines for two years meant I received a unique vocabulary expansion opportunity. Since I am a curious human being, I was always asking questions and attempting to understand the chatter taking place around me. As a result, I discovered I was expanding my vocabulary daily. In order to remember the random things I learned, I began compiling a dictionary. The majority were slang phrases and a large percentage were, um, uncouth. Some were just plain odd. I mean, no one teaches you that having "crocodiles in your pockets" means you're a cheapscate in Spanish class.

Cleaning out my work files the other day I stumbled across "El diccionario" and thought I'd share. Just for fun, here's the clean(ish) version:

Chasco = gag gift
Puntillista = meticulous/fussy in a good way
Prolija = precise, put-together, perfectionistic
Mañosa = meticulous in a bad way, control freak
Copada = Cool
Dar bola = pay attention
Telgopor = polyfan = poliestireno =Styrofoam
Gruñóna = grumpy
Autobomba = self-propoganda
Bombacha = girl undies
"Dime con quién andas y te diré quién eres" = "Tell me who you hang out with and I'll tell you who you are"
Zapar = jamming (only with music)
Caño = pole
Zanja = ditch
Cambalache = kitch
Cachetazo = slap
Cachete = cheek
Entrometer = meddle, interfere, intrude, barge in
Bostezar = Yawn
“No es grupo” = no es mentira = it's not a lie
Sigla = Acronym
Codito/Amarete = cheap or Gaista = Jew
Cocodrilos en el bolsillo = crocodiles in your pocket (cheap)
Plomo = “staff” at a concert or an insistent person or a boring item
Lamer = to lick
Camionera = truck driver’s mouth (for a girl)
Hueca = Hollow
Huevadas o coludes = idiotices
Alcahuete / Buchon = tattle tale
Versero = liar, able to speak in lyrical, lying verse
Una pinturita = something that works really well/is great
Calzones = men’s undies
En Babia = spaced out, like you mentally went to Babylon and got lost
Arropar = cover yourself or to cuddle
Rrogar = to beg
Clueca = body doesn’t work right anymore / old and broken-ish
Estoy subido en una palmera = mentally hanging out in a palm tree = in my own little world
Carajo = ship lookout
Te manda al carajo = they sent you on a wild goose chase
Fuiste al carajo = got lost in nowhere
Erizar = to make stand on end
Bochinche = lotsa noise
Que cara de orto tenés! = you've got a pissed off face
Forro = person who doesn’t have any value (this is quite rude)
Fogoso = hot in bed (meow)
Zafa = in the middle
Mocos: Boogers
Metejon = someone you like, a "crush"

Want the dirty version? Just ask. (Although most of you who would care probably have heard it all already, jaja!)

Exploring: DC/VA/MD

2010-07-16T03:42:00.000-07:00

I’m somewhere exotic right now: Arlington, Virginia. Ok, so that’s not exotic like Argentina, but when you’re from California this opposing coast is a whole new world ripe for exploration. Arlington is part of the greater Washington DC area, so I’ve been poking around seeing some of the iconic tourist attractions our country offers.

Arlington National Cemetery is beautiful, stoic and filled me with curiosity. If only those graves could tell their heroic stories. For some reason I find cemeteries to be slightly magical; they have a cool nostalgia– a reminder that these bodies are destructible shells simply containing human essence.

On the 4th of July I was able to catch up with Daniel and Jihee: two former co-workers from my days in the OC, still good friends of mine. They recently bought a condo in DC and had a great day exploring their neighborhood. After a scrumptious brunch at the Tabard Inn we visited the National Cathedral. Since I’ve explored cathedrals in Italy and Spain it shocked me by being so new. I’ve never seen gothic architecture in such perfect condition before. That night made an awesome charcuterie dinner and snuck wine up to their rooftop in plastic cups while watching a gorgeous fireworks show. Afterwards, we could see tiny explosions along the horizon in all directions for hours. I saw fireworks in three states: DC, Maryland and Virgina all in one rooftop experience. Super cool!

Jihee and Daniel also enticed me to visit Old Town Alexandria, VA which is absolutely charming. It’s gigantic as well! I’ve never seen an old, quaint brick downtown like that take up so much real estate and be so functional. We participated in happy hour at Vermillion, which had an upbeat swanky atmosphere and great prices on eclectic, fun munchies. Then we tried Brabo, an unpretentious little wine bar where we were happily surprised by the Yalumba Shiraz and Viognier blend. I’ve never tried those particular grapes together and it was delightful. Especially when enjoyed with such good company.

My host here in DC, Brian, has been taking me to an assortment of delicious eating establishments and fun happy hours as well. I had to be rolled out of Ray’s the Steaks after consuming a decadent NY strip the size of my head. And I couldn’t help but be impressed with Wacky Wednesdays at Mister Day’s sport's bar where they serve $2 beers and the best $2 nachos imaginable. The “love love love” review goes to Tallula: an enchanting restaurant/wine bar right around the corner from Brian’s house. If I lived here I’d be a regular. Amazing food paired with the perfect atmosphere + an extensive wine list makes it a great choice. I also have to comment on the service: we were debating a couple wine choices and our server brought us a flight for tastings to help us decide. It’s those extra details like nuttela-covered mini-donuts delivered with your bill that create favorites.

Brian has also been introducing me to baseball. We went to Baltimore, MD a few weeks ago and caught an Oriole’s game at the historic Camden Yards, an old factory that’s now a gorgeous stadium. I have to admit I may have liked Baltimore’s National Aquarium even better, though. It was by far one of the best aquariums I’ve ever visited, with a gigantic shark tank and rad jelly fish. In contrast to Camden Yards, we also attended a National’s game, held at the Nationals Park Stadium here in DC, which is brand new and sparkling. Personally, I preferred the brick charm of Camden Yards, but if there’s peanuts and beer you can talk me into either!

Finally, I managed to secure a tour of the US Capitol building to partake in a bit of traditional tourism. It was my only real official DC tour and I loved seeing the House of Representatives up close. I didn’t do enough of the museum/monument viewing, so I'm slightly guilty as my return approaches. However every trip has its focus and mine was definitely more about enjoying beautiful moments with wonderful people than on real sightseeing.

After running around South America, it's been an entirely new and wonderful experience venturing across my own country to play tourist on American soil. Our world is so fabulously vast with an array of rich experiences to offer tucked into every corner of the globe. Life just continues to surprise; no matter where we are!

Full heart, empty bank account.

2010-07-08T05:30:00.001-07:00

They say you either have time or money. Right now, I’m enjoying the luxury of having time. After making pesos in Argentina for 2 years and returning to the states flat broke without a full-time job, I can’t really claim to be rolling in cash. The rainbow in that story is that I’ve continued doing a bit of contract work with my company in Argentina so I’ve got a tiny income and I’m completely mobile. While I may not be able to purchase a new shoe collection, right now I have time to visit the people I missed so much while in Argentina. Two years is a long time to be away, and I have some serious catching up to do.

I tearfully fell into my parent’s arms at the airport. Then, the first people I absolutely had to see were my 2 little sisters, Sarah and Marin. How is it possible I went that long without seeing their beautiful faces? Marin lives in San Diego so the whole family met up in May to celebrate her graduation. Since I’m a nomad, I was able to spend over a week there with her, soaking up quality family time. Extra bonus: I got to meet up with my childhood neighbor and dearest friend Davis for beach adventures.

I’ve also gotten to know my cousin Keri all over again, met up for a weekend escape with my college roommate and bestest friend Lisa, driven an hour to meet my mentor Molly for breakfast and enjoyed many bike rides and leisurely dinners with Mom and Dad. I’ve even been studying for the GMAT! Right now I’m in Arlington, Virginia chasing romance and drinking wine with ex-coworkers/current friends.

So there’s no shoe collection, and I can’t help but pout when contemplating my finances. But I’m so rich and lucky right now! Travelling in my own country and visiting my favorite people fills me with love and joy. It’s also brought me insight and direction for my future. I might choose to live in another country again; however I’d need “home” to be accessible. Ideally, I’d love to settle in around the Bay Area where 80% of my favorite humans are within driving distance and there’s a big international airport. We’ll have to see where the job hunt and life search land me. The future is still wide open.

I do recognize that these past few months are a beautiful, but temporary little period in my life, and I’m slowly working on sculpting a new direction for my future. However, at this moment I’m very grateful for my empty bank account, since it means I’ve got extra time to fill up my heart enjoying the people I adore.

Blogs must transition, too.

2010-07-01T16:21:00.000-07:00

Minor epiphany: Since returning to the US after living in Argentina for 2 years, I haven’t been maintaining my blog so well. After a bit of contemplation I realized:

I like this blog! I’m not giving it up. Somehow it’s easier to process the thoughts whirlwinding through my head when I can write them down and share them with you.
My story didn’t end when I got back home to the states. In fact, it’s just beginning.

Now I have to build an entire life from scratch. It’s going to be yet another amazing journey and I’d like to share it with you. I’ve started by updating my blog design a bit. What do you think!?

What you eat

2010-05-04T10:24:00.000-07:00

Relocating around the globe has made me realize something that seems rather obvious: food is a big deal. You eat 3+ times a day and don't really think much about it. However, when everything you're accustomed to eating changes it's a huge lifestyle adjustment.

When I went to Argentina I desperately missed some of my US habitual foods, which I'm enjoying re-discovering now that I'm home (like string cheese and salad dressing!) Yeah, my butt is growing as we speak! We Americans do have some delicious options.

However, at some point in time I must have adjusted to my Argentine diet and returning has meant I'm re-learning to eat as an American all over again. Can I just say that's freaking confusing!?!

I feel like I should know what I like and want but somewhere over the last two years my personal preferences actually changed. I still can't figure out what I want to eat for breakfast. I make my coffee different. I'm appalled by the amount of packaged/artificial food we eat and I suddenly noticed the ridiculous selection of fast-food and chain restaurants this country features.

So if anyone is coming from Argentina I'm down on my knees begging for some Frutigran cookies (the orange package, please).

Vacaciones en Costa Rica.

2010-04-17T09:19:00.000-07:00

Well, I could write a blog about my trip to Costa Rica but my friend Natalie already did a great job so I am just going to add some extra photos and defer to her: Read Natalie's blog.

Below: The traditional "tico" breakfast: Pico de gallo (black beans mixed with rice) paired with eggs, corn tortillas, funky tico cheese and delicious coffee!
Took a tour of a coffee plantation. These are "peaberry" beans which are actually mutants and create some of the best coffee. Mmmmm...Called the "poor man's umbrella" because these leaves are so giant!
The smokin' Poas Volcano (that sulfur lake was stinky!)At the La Paz Waterfall park (the foliage was even better than the falls!)
I think the sky is bluer and the clouds are fluffier in Costa Rica. Really.Drinking fresh coconut milk on the beach in Puerto Viejo with Natalie! A pirate with a giant machete cut those open for us :) The perfect beach/jungle combo at the national park in Cahuita:
I'm really grateful to have had the opportunity to go to Costa Rica for three reasons:

It was a phenomenal "buffer" between Buenos Aires and the US. It gave me a moment to relax and separate my head from Argentina and start thinking forward to a new chapter.
While I've lived in Argentina and explored that country pretty well I really haven't done much traveling in Latin America. Costa Rica was my first visit to Central America and it is SO different from the big city I was living in. Learning a tiny bit about another culture, a different accent, delicious new foods and completely unique scenery was really nice to give me a new perspective on another part of the world.
I got to see Natalie and Daniel! It's amazing to have close friends scattered across the world and I hope our travel lists will grow together as we meet up at other exotic locations in years to come. Besos y amor.

The Curious Discovery Journey

2010-03-28T21:01:00.001-07:00

Patagonia is the Southern region of Argentina and it is absolutely nada que ver (nothing like) the giant bustling city I’ve been living in for the past two years. Instead, they’re showcasing soaring mountains and gigantic floating blocks of blue ice. I was given the gift of a week spent immersed in nature with my friend Brian, who I hadn’t seen in eight years. It was a spectacular trip. I’m going to let the pictures speak for themselves!

First: Bariloche
Precious little mountain town with a distinct German flair near the border of Chile. They feature artesian chocolates (thankfully someone dragged me out of the chocolate boutique) and microbreweries cast to a scenery of beautiful mountains and crystal clear lakes. Extra bonus: my friend, Meg, lives there so we got our own personal tour guide. Oh, and did I mention the fondue with red wine? Divine!

Second: El Calafate
Growing up in Redding, California means I’ve seen mountains and lakes before. However, never in my life have I seen a glacier. Better yet, I got to climb the glacier wearing crazy spiky cleats and was rewarded with alfahores (delicious cookies) and whiskey (chilled with glacier water) at the end. It was the highlight of the trip for me and I was blown away by the size, color and sheer glory of
the glaciers.

I’m so grateful to have seen a little bit more of Argentina before leaving for good. After the trip was over I had four days to pack up my bags, say goodbye to my home and hop on a plane. What an amazing country! I'm glad to add this trip to a rich collection of memories that have left a lifelong impression on me. Quite the curious discovery journey.

Saying Good-bye

2010-03-06T22:55:00.000-08:00

Friday was my “despedida” or good-bye party. It was a bitter-sweet night: I enjoyed myself immensely but kept being reminded that there are so many precious people here I’ll miss. Oh, and we had absolutely amazing food. I love celebrating like a little piggy!

Over the course of the night I was also reminded of the fact that the words “good-bye” are simply not sufficient. How do you really say good-bye to someone and communicate all the love you’ve felt for them? All the great memories? Especially if I’m not going to see them for a long time, or maybe never again! How can you put that type of good-bye into words? I found that my vocabulary just wasn’t sufficient. I hope that my friends felt my heart through my hugs.

I also feel like the party confirmed that it’s my moment to exit Argentina. There were so many people who were a special part of my Argentine adventure who should have been at my despedida, but they’re all gone now! I’m the only one left of the 12 Americans who took the TEFL course with me during my first month here two years ago. And you know what? I went to all of their despedidas. I’ve probably been to 20 despedidas over the last two years. That’s too many. I’m glad that this last one was mine.

I don’t want more good-byes, although the next few weeks will be full of them. The silver lining, though is that I’m returning in a month and then I’ll be able to change my tune and say “hello!” to everyone I’ve been missing so much.

Jesus-Land & Bubbles

2010-02-28T18:29:00.000-08:00

Yesterday I went to a religious theme park where I had the great pleasure of taking my photo next to Jesus and his bleeding heart. The simple existence of the “Tierra Santa” in Argentina is (in my opinion) the epitome of commercialized religion. Obviously, the Catholic Church is a flagrantly profiting business, however it just seems ridiculous to me that I can go visit Jesus-land and pose with the three wise men and a plastic sheep. It’s incredibly tacky!

Myself, and my friends Hannah and Nathan (who are some of my favorite humans on the planet, by the way) decided that the lure of plastic religion was irresistible and we had to go look. We started out the day with homemade pancakes, dulce de leche and mimosas. Then we gallivanted through the park, took lots of pictures and checked out the hot centurions wearing tiny skirts. I’d like to have a profound statement to make about the place, but really it was just a lot of ugly statues. I felt a bit sorry for the small children. I mean, at 10 years old I would have preferred the water park next door.

To contrast such a pious day, Nathan and I hit up the boliches late-night to get in some dancing. Suddenly, rivers of foam started pouring onto the dance floor and we were drenched in sticky oozing bubbles. It was fun! My shoe did slip off into the bubbly abyss but it miraculously reappeared about five hours later. The only downside to being completely soaked meant I was shivering as I watched the sun rise over the brown river.

Buenos Aires is special and I’m going to miss it. Where else in the world can you go visit Jesus and dance all night in a cloud of foam?

Secret: Making New Friends.

2010-01-30T06:24:00.001-08:00

Just ask.
That’s the secret to making new friends.

For me, that was not an instinctive action. Making new friends was never my forte. While I fiercely love the people I’m close to, I have a tendency to hold tight to a small group and not bother with expansion. I have my golden social moments, but I’m a classic introvert at heart.

However, something interesting happened when I moved to Argentina: I was all alone. Mom is a continent away. My childhood friends, my college roomie, my entire emotional support system: all on the other side of the world. Now, don’t get me wrong, I’m more than happy at home alone with a glass of wine and a good book. However, sometimes it’s good to get outside and see the sunshine and revel in that bonding feeling. We need people. We need relationships in our lives. So I had to figure out how to meet people.

After 26 years and more moves than I can count, I’ve finally learned to make friends. You know what I discovered? The easiest way to make friends is to ask. That’s a little scary. At least for me it was. Asking people if they wanted to be my friend? Inviting them to enter my little world? Approaching them and striking up conversation? That’s not what comes naturally to me. Yet out of necessity I started doing it. Shockingly enough, when I started asking, people said “yes.” They liked me. They wanted to hang out. Little by little, I made friends and developed a support system.

After nearly two years in Argentina, I’ve created lifetime friendships. Along the way I uncovered the magic truth that it's ok to ask people to be your friend. I'll be sad to leave the people I love here. However, I'm comforted because I've learned a very cool lesson that I can apply when I return to the states to start from scratch and build a whole new network all over again: Just ask.

Oh, and if someone reaches out and asks you?
Make sure to say “yes!”

The Closing

2010-01-17T18:40:00.000-08:00

Official announcement: I’ll be back stateside April 7th. This means I’ve arrived a new part of my expat experience: the closing. I can feel myself quietly shutting down my little life here. Internally I’ve got an interesting mix of nostalgia, excitement and dread happening inside my busy little head.

It’s making me slightly apathetic. Since people always come and go in expat-land I’ve been on a crusade to make new friends for the last year and a half. Now that I’m the one leaving? I’m not trying anymore. No more obligatory social events. I haven’t had much luck dating in this country, so I’m giving that up too. No more disaster dates. And you know what? I don’t really feel like staying up until 7am anymore. I did that plenty of times. I don’t have to keep participating unless I’m inspired. It’s a liberating moment: I’m just doing my thing.

Of course, the closing is a moment on my journey and I’ll have to revive efforts and build a new life in the US come April. But until then, I want to enjoy the people I love here and savor these last little moments. I’ll definitely miss my life here in Buenos Aires. The return is wonderful, but the closing is sad.

Thirsty? Hungry? Eating & Drinking in Buenos Aires.

2010-01-13T17:28:00.001-08:00

Lately I’ve been playing tour guide quite a bit, and I was inspired to make a list of all the restaurants and bars I recommend in Buenos Aires. Since I love to eat and I love to drink, well, I think I've got some good spots on my list. By no means extensive, this list only includes places I’ve actually visited, but my list of places I want to try is even longer! Hopefully I’ll keep eating my way through this city and get to make additions.

Getting started: Breakfast and Lunch

Oui Oui – Palermo; Nicaragua 6068; 4778-9614 – French/American. Small, cute cozy atmosphere. They have delicious lemonade, real bacon and big cups of coffee. I adore this spot!
Como en Casa – Recoleta; Laprida 1782; 4829-0624 – Truly decadent cakes and pies make this little corner coffee shop/bakery an absolute treasure. They’ve also got great lunch goodies (salads, sandwiches, etc).
Crocante – Caballito; Senillosa 98; 4983-6878 – Adorable little café tucked away in Caballito, which is not part of the normal tourist circut and therefore has great prices. They feature aromatic pasteries and the tortas (similar to a quiché) are to die for. If you're in the area, don't miss it.
iCentral Market – Puerto Madero; P. Dealessi; 5775-030 – This is an amazing spot for extremely expensive coffee. It’s adorable inside and out and the lady's bathroom is wink pink. I’ve never eaten a full meal here but it’s a perfect for sweets and a caffeine boost while meandering in Puerto Madero.

Decently priced spots for dinner:

Cumaná – Recoleta; Rodriguez Peña 1149; 4813-9207 – the highlight are cazuelas, or pots full of baked deliciousness. Also sporting great pizzas, empanadas and other traditional Argentine food. It’s casual, with packed seating, bright colors and lots of noise.
Sarkis – Palermo; Thames 1101; 4772-4911 – Arabic food. A nice change from the standard fare, and at great prices. Warning: due to the massive quantities of garlic in all the dishes, this is not a date night spot!
Enfundá la Mandolina – Palermo; Salguero 1440; 4822-4479 – Featuring regional Argentine foods that come in jars and pots and other odd containers. Navigating the menu is challenging since the dishes have traditional names, but everything we got was delicious so don’t be worried. They have a bizarre mix of decorations, resulting in a lively atmosphere.

Places you’ll splurge on but can still afford:

Il Ballo de Mattone – Palermo; Gorriti 5936; 4776-4247 – funky little Italian joint with kitchy-cute ambiance. They bring out a big chalkboard to read you the night’s menu.
Bar 6 – Palermo; Armenia 1676; 4833-6807; – An interesting old warehouse that's been renovated with modern flair. Small but quality menu with meat, fish and some Asian-inspired plates. On the weekends go for lunch specials that include a main course with an appetizer or dessert. Really superb bread!
Los Loros – San Telmo; Estados Unidos 302, 4361-5539 – An eclectic global menu paired with a quality wine selection won my heart over. Also in a really cute part of town with very personal service.

Places to go if someone is visiting and has dollars
(make reservations):

Las Lilas – Puerto Madero; Alicia Moreau de Justo 516; 4313-1336; – if you’ve been reading guidebooks, you’ve probable heard of Las Lilas already since it’s awarded "Best Restaurant in Buenos Aires" by a few different sources. Ridiculously expensive, but completely amazing meat. Make sure you get the “complete" meal that includes all the sides, goodies, dessert and lemoncella. Oh, and if you’re really in the mood for something fancy, let the sommelier give you a personal wine recommendation from their extensive menu.
Sucre – Palermo/Belgrano; Sucre 676; 4782-9082 – Make sure to sit at the impressive bar and have a drink before dinner, because they have the most successfully creative cocktails in town. One of the few places I’m willing to label as “fine dining” in the city. It’s a destination location: slightly off the beaten path but you’ll be glad you sought it out.
La Cabrera – Palermo; Cabrera 5099; 4831-7002 – this is the most touristy spot I’ve managed to get attached to: but it’s an experience you can’t miss. They have 2 locations a block away from one another. You can’t make reservations so there’s always a crowd waiting outside. You won’t mind the 30 minute wait, though, since they give you glasses of champagne and little munchies. Be prepared for meat: giant chunks of beef arrive on huge slabs surrounded by pots of random side dishes. They always run very good wine specials, so just go for the featured Malbec. You’ll waddle out of there happy and full.

Fancy bars worth suffering though high heels:

Millión – Recoleta; Paraná 1048; 4815-9925 – Posh bar in an old French mansion. You can’t help but feel fancy sipping your drinks on the magestic staircase descending to a quaint outdoor garden. I’m not a huge fan of the food, but they do a decent job with the tapa-style appetizers.
El Gran Bar Danzon – Recoleta; Libertad 1161; 4811-1108 – This could be one of my most favorite spots in the city. They have low lighting, swanky lounge music and an impressive quantity of wines by the glass which come with little informational tags attached. They also serve elegant food from a teeny tiny menu that changes every time I visit. You cannot go wrong with the steak dish. Also, hit them up Wednesday night from 8 to 10pm for happy hour when they have 2 for one wine specials and live jazz (make a reservation or go early since it fills up fast).

It’s freaking hot and I just need a damn drink:

Bangalore – Palermo; Humboldt 1416; 4779-2621 – This place rocks because you can get jars of gin and tonic that make drinking a fun shared activity. Lots of wood and a lively pub feel. Apparently they have good Indian food too, but I’ve always too interested in the beverages to give it a try.
Sugar – Palermo; Costa Rica 4619 – This is a serious expat bar so don’t expect to practice your Spanish. However, they’re a solid solution for events like the Superbowl or when you’re craving nachos. And the beer is $5 pesos until midnight. What’s not to love?
Acabar – Palermo; Honduras 5733; 477-0845 – Enjoy your beverages with friends in a lively, kitchy-cool old factory turned bar. This is an awesome group place featuring a collection of games including giant, wobbly, wooden Janga pieces. The food is inexpensive and cheap, too.
The Oldest – Caballito; Ambrosetti 31; 4902-3188 – If you find yourself in Caballito, this is a solid choice. Go for beer and popcorn or they have a nice drink selection to pair with delicious tablas (like meat and cheese platters). Also perfect for an afternoon snack and strong Irish coffee.

No one sleeps in Argentina:

Levitar – Palermo; Godoy Cruz 1715 – Not quite a bar, not quite a boliche, Levitar is a happy medium. It’s got a cozy chic atmosphere with a fresh outdoor patio for sipping drinks and a separate room with a rockin’ DJ and dancing. Good spot to swing through around midnight or 1am pre-boliche.
Kika – Palermo; Honduras 5339 – Don’t laugh, but Kika is my favorite boliche because it’s well-ventilated. That’s way more important than you can imagine in this humidity. Two rooms, one with electronica and the other with reggaeton and latin music. It’s also a convenient ending point since it's in the center of Palermo nightlife. Don't bother showing up until at least 2am or later.
Museum – San Telmo; Perú 535; 4771-9628 – If you don’t have to work Thursday, this is the place to be Wednesday night. It’s the only night that you can go out early and start dancing at 10pm to midnight, and they often have live bands. Get cute since it's a fashionable scene in a gorgeous building and you'll see lots of suits there for after-office. Try and sneek into VIP on the 2nd and 3rd floor. If it's not Wednesday, don't bother arriving until at least 2am.

And no list would be complete without my favorite joint for pizza and empanadas:

Cambalache – Juncal 2601; 4824-2219 – This is a hole-in-the-wall spot with zero ambiance, so call for delivery or swing in and grab your empanadas to go. They have a few unique and completely delicious “special” empanadas that aren’t the standard fair. Since this recommendation is coming from me, be prepared for massive quantities of delicious oozing cheese.

Hints: Look things up on this interactive Buenos Aires map and figure out how to get there with Como Viajo.
If you've found my mini-guide lacking, the best online food guide for Buenos Aires is Guia Oleo (most of the spots above are listed).

Call-out to my expat friends: what are your favorite spots? I’m always interested in restaurant and bar recommendations.

Sunshine Christmas

2009-12-29T18:17:00.000-08:00

Christmas was amazing! My friend Meg (who has now left me… miss you Meg!) and I went to Pinamar for three awesome days eating, drinking and indulging in incessant girl chat. It was completely fantastic. For Christmas Eve we toasted at a phenomenal restaurant on the beach, were given costumes and danced along with the masses in a swanky live music moment. We both managed to get sunburned, ate fried calamari numerous times and drank a copious amount of beer on the beach. Pretty much perfection. While I missed my family a tremendous amount, I really enjoyed celebrating an Argentine Christmas in the sun.

Getting out of the city was great for my mental health as well, and I’ve returned rejuvenated and enthusiastic. These are the moments that remind me why I’m here and why it’s amazing. In my last few months, I'm planning to make memories to hang onto for a lifetime.

Next year I’ll be so grateful to be with my family, but I’m sure I’ll be nostalgic for the beach as well!

Merry Christmas with Love

2009-12-23T11:06:00.000-08:00

I want to be excited for the holidays. I really do. But you know what? I'm mostly just trying to ignore that it's Christmas. Actually, that's a fairly easy thing to do in Latin America since right now it's roasting hot and I'm wearing a mini-skirt and a tank top.

Can I also please note that Argentine Christmas trees are unusually ugly? I mean, they are tiny, poorly decorated and look completely out of place in the sunshine. The one in the foyer of my apartment building also only has 25% of his lights working and sometimes plays obnoxious Christmas music. I have a suspicion he's actually laughing at me.

Anyhoo, back to topic: I really can't complain too much since I've got a girlie get-away on the beach planned for Christmas. Instead of whimpering because I'm far far away, I'm attempting to focus on my current mantra: BEACH BEACH BEACH! It's hard to be homesick when you're sunbathing sipping a cocktail, right?

While I've got sunshine and a sexy tan this Christmas, next year I promise I'll be home. That's not a promise to my family or friends. It's a promise to me. My heart is aching for you. I can't wait to put my arms around you and hug you. I miss you all so very much.

Merry Christmas with love! xoxox

Thanksgiving

2009-11-25T03:02:00.000-08:00

Thanksgiving feast!

Food. You don't even realize it, but food constitutes a huge part of our lives and our culture. I mean, think about how much of the day we spend mowing down on munchies.

As expats, I notice that often it's a huge shock to relocate and suddenly be missing such a staple of daily life. What do I eat here, anyway? Part of moving to a new country is re-learning how to grocery shop, cook and snack in a foreign fashion. It's interesting to say the least, and more shocking than expected.

That said, now I can get to my point: this year having a very very American Thanksgiving truly warmed my heart. Food! Lots of it! The kind of food I love and miss: turkey, mashed potatoes, gravy, stuffing, sweet potato sides, and (this was my contribution) homemade salad dressing.

Stuffed Thanksgiving stomachs!

Apart from the magic comfort of delicious food; the camaraderie was exceptional. We were a little gang of lost rebels in a foreign land getting together and trying to replicate home for a moment. Forget that it was a Saturday and there was no cranberry sauce or whipped cream. We had pumpkin pie and turkey. That was beyond sufficient – in fact it bordered on brilliance. Also, I think that going “potluck” style: the act of cooking and each contributing to the party committed everyone. Americans, Britons and Argentines alike arrived proudly with their homemade plates ready to party. It turned out spectacular.

This Thanksgiving I’m grateful for good food, wonderful friends and big hearts that cross oceans. And I’ve already started preparing my mental list of all the things I am going to absolutely adore eating when I get home. It’s a growing list.

What food would you miss if you lived in Argentina? I bet you’d be surprised…
(who knew that I freaking love salad dressing so much?)

Seeking: A Permanent Life.

2009-11-15T09:51:00.000-08:00

Personal growth is a fascinating evolution. It generally happens in a painful fashion and then you emerge on the other side and discover that you're slightly more adult and mature. But those painful experiences? Yeah, they really hurt.

Recently I've had an interesting mix of life magic brewing in my world. On one hand, I've grown tremendously since arriving in Argentina. I've built a life here: good job, great friends, cute little apartment: all the basics. Maybe not quite as comfy as my American life, but certainly what I would call successful.

On the other hand, I feel like after a year and a half this place is starting to wear on me. Lately I’ve begun to really miss "home" again. Maybe the cataclysmic event was yet another painful, failed romance. Maybe it has to do with the fact that I've accomplished what I came here to do. Maybe I'm just tired (this is not a city that sleeps). Maybe I just need a hug.

Regardless where the internal angst came from, independence has been kind of traumatic lately and I'm starting to just be exhausted by the difficulties of living in this culture. I miss the states. I miss my family. I miss normal time schedules. I miss being able to express myself without struggling though a foreign tongue.

I always feel like things are bittersweet here. When I build up my life, make new friends and expand my community here, there's a lurking impermanence about those accomplishments. I know that it's just temporary. I feel like I'm ready to start a permanent life. I want to make friends I can have for 10 years and settle in somewhere that I can truly call home long-term. Really, I'd say coming to that realization is progress for me. And if I listen to my heart, it's telling me it's time to head back.

Hopefully I'll return, and emerge on the other side of this adventure slightly more adult and self-actualized. It's scary, though. Going back means "starting over" and building an entirely new life once again: job hunt, house hunt and network building. None of those things are easy. But at least I'll get more hugs. xoxo

Gay Day!

2009-11-09T17:52:00.000-08:00

Random, slightly refreshing and definitely interesting…

Saturday night I found myself at the Buenos Aires Gay Pride parade. United with thousands of other observers – some of them wearing rather interesting costumes – my lady friends and I watched the magic rainbow floats drift by. It was more or less a walking boliche (night club) and we were swept up in the dancing mass of people marching through the streets.

While I don’t really have strong opinions on the issue, I truly enjoy and find the few gay friends I have to be completely amazing humans. As an event, it was more than interesting. And the general ambiance: loud music, fun costumes and moving hips, made it a riot to participate.

Following the theme of the night, I went to my friend’s house for dinner, drank an unacceptable amount of beer and headed off to a gay club with a few fabulous gay fellows.

Hannah and I were two of maybe 5 girls in Glam – a gay bar packed full of gorgeous dancing men. It was super fun: we danced for hours without anyone caring and I was able to walk through the room without being groped nor propositioned. And there was even TP in the women’s bathroom. Like I said, kind of refreshing. Maybe I’ll become a regular. And I’ll definitely be hanging out with those crazy boys again. No one appreciates my glittery pinstripe pants like they do.

My daily commute.

2009-10-25T18:06:00.000-07:00

Every day, on my way to work, I cross though Plaza de Mayo. It’s the center of the city: and home to some spectacular architecture. The Casa Rosada, Argentina's equivalent to the White House, sits in the center of the plaza, surrounded by gardens and picketers.

Daily commutes are pretty routine, and the grand majority of mornings I walk bleary-eyed to work without noticing anything extraordinary about my surroundings. However, on occasion I look up and am stunned by the splendor of the skyline: towering skyscrapers and adorned palaces.

Sometimes, I’m also accosted by demonstrations: one day people were wearing posters showing a photo of Obama with a drawn-on Hitler mustache, decorated with acid raindrops. I took one of their flyers in an attempt to understand the movement against “financial fascism” but I couldn’t figure out exactly why they had chosen that particular image. I’m thinking mostly shock value.

A couple weeks ago a beautiful commemorative piece of art appeared: a big metal frame with dangling white crosses covered in flowers. It was a tribute to the lives lost in the Guerra de las Islas Malvinas. An absolutely moving piece.

There are days I miss commuting to work in my car. Yet other days I definitely appreciate the reality of walking to work: feeling, seeing, smelling and experiencing my routine in a way I just never did as a comfy cozy American.

Other things I do when I'm sick.

2009-10-14T18:30:00.000-07:00

While sick I decided to be productive. Besides, a new apartment just begs for a little decorating. Presenting my art:

I'm sick and making lists.

2009-10-06T18:12:00.001-07:00

Things I miss about the United States

My family and friends: people who’ve known me for years.
What I consider to be "normal" hours for living, working
and playing.
Reliability: a plan is a plan and it happens on time.
Dating as something to be taken seriously.
Salad dressing, Mexican food and big cups of coffee.
Clean streets, clean cities, clean people: cleanliness.
Owning a car and not being required to use public transportation.
Wearing high heels and having flat surfaces to walk on.
How polite and professional people tend to be.
Financial stability and a reliable currency: making dollars.

Things I heart about Argentina

How easy it is to make amazing friends here.
Independence and solitude: my life is so very mine.
An interesting job that challenges me personally and professionally.
Discovering the world in Spanish – little accomplishments happen every day. Like a remix of my worldview.
Sitting and talking over coffee for two hours without glancing at my watch.
That no one cares if you’re late… in fact it’s odd if you’re on time. Especially for work.
The incredible sweets: facturas and dulce de leche? Mmmm…
Walking everywhere and truly experiencing the weather.
The up-front, frank Argentine way of relating to the world.
That people want to chat with me because I’m unique here and I talk funny.

New Chapter: Ridiculoso!

2009-09-25T13:22:00.000-07:00

I feel like since arriving in Buenos Aires I’ve lived four or five distinct chapters. Every few months I end up with a new group of friends, a crazy new project, a big move or a romantic disaster. Once again, this month I’ve managed to tip my little world upside down and I’m embarking on yet another new chapter.

This time the setting is the new and upgraded apartment in Barrio Norte/Recoleta. It’s a busy spot in the city – faulting the trees that populated my street in Caballito – but it’s incredibly convenient. I can hop on a bus or the subway and be to work in 30 minutes. Phenomenal!

The apartment also comes complete with a set of four solid walls, my own little bathroom, lots of great storage, a terrace, a black cat named Bruja and a fabulous new roommate named Ali (featured below). I’ve ended my permanent camping situation and I’m more or less in love (it even has a microwave!).

Along with a new location, I’ve begun making lots of effort to replace my girlfriends who mercilessly left me here a few months ago. As a result I’ve discovered some new and amazing ladies for adventure hunting. I’m also seeing an Argentine who is about the sweetest human being on the planet and is keeping a smile on my face. We’ll just have to see how that goes before I tell you more stories about him.

And the big announcement:

I’ve decided to change the name of my blog to “Ridiculoso.”
This is a word that I invented.

The real translation for “that’s completely ridiculous” is “es completemente ridiculo!” but I always want to add an extra syllable to “ridiculo” and thus this has become my signature error. As an invented word, it just works… and I think with all the ups, downs and craziness of the last year it’s an appropriate title for my self-musings!

An Expensive Accent

2009-09-03T17:56:00.000-07:00

My last a post was about how lovely life can be... but today I’m going to post a rant about this stinkin’ country and how everyone is always trying to rip off foreigners. Really! Taking advantage is an Argentine specialty.

I am moving soon, so I need to arrange for a little moving truck to come get my bed and my small collection of possessions and take them to the new apartment. So I called a moving company close to my house to ask about prices. They quoted me $400 pesos for the move – which I knew was ridiculous. I asked the lady on the phone, “What exactly does that price include?” and she was like, “Oh, don’t worry! Everything! We’ll send three people and move everything.” What? Three people to move a bed? $400 pesos for an hour or two of work? You have to be kidding me. She refused to give me an explanation of the the pricing breakdown – no, that was just the price.

So I asked my male Argentine co-worker to call. For him, the price was $40 pesos an hour for the truck, $18 pesos an hour for workers to help move (he was able to request just one) and $3 pesos for a flight of stairs. Yup, grand total will be under $150 pesos.

Sorry, but that just makes me mad. So I’ve got an accent. That doesn’t mean that a) I’m rich, nor b) I’m an idiot. I can communicate perfectly fine in Spanish: I understood everything said to me on the phone, and that stupid woman understood everything I said, even if it included a couple grammatical errors. I’ve been here long enough that this treatment is simply infuriating, for crying out loud!

It’s a well-known fact the Argentines love to “aprovechar” or take advantage of us foreigners. What makes me mad is that I’m not running around with dollars: I’m as poor as any of them are. Apparently I've just got an expensive accent.

Oh, yeah, THIS is why I'm here.

2009-08-30T10:06:00.001-07:00

Yesterday I felt like I was on vacation. One of those magic, happy little moments when contentment was tangible, sitting in my stomach like a piece of delicious chocolate cake. This city wears me out sometimes, and it’s so gratifying to have a joyful expat experience and remember why I’m here: it’s all about discovering new experiences.

First of all, I found an apartment! What an incredible relief. After running all over the city and responding to a hundred ads, I found a spot that’s going to be a definite upgrade. It’s very centrally located, so I’ll cut way down on my commute to work and the travel time to go out with friends. I’m closer to everything that I like to do here in Buenos Aires. It’s with just one roommate instead of two and the department is much bigger. It’s located on a busy street, but it’s an internal apartment, so it’s quiet and mellow. I have a giant room with my own bathroom and big sliding glass doors that open onto a quaint little terrace (I’ve got a vision of myself laying out in the sun and finally getting a tan, haha!). I’ll be making the move over the next two weeks. It will be nice to change location – there’s always a sense of a little fresh start and a new chapter with a move.

I also joined the couchsurfing network, which is a cool program including an active social group here in Buenos Aires. We did an empanada event yesterday and I learned how to make the most signature of all Argentine foods. I’m still not a pro at folding the little edges of the empanadas, but I’m going to have to practice and aim for perfection, jaja! I also met people from all over the world: the US, England, Australia, Argentina (of course) and enjoyed chatting away and making new friends.

Then to celebrate the new apartment, I went out with a good friend, Greg, who is in town right now visiting. We had a delicious steak dinner and went out dancing afterward at Kika. Love that club. I have to say my favorite part is that they’ve got a well-ventilated dance floor so you don’t sweat to death and suffocate. It was a blast!

Yes, my Saturday was a vacation. Quite lovely. Tonight I’m going to go and learn how to play “Truco” the Argentine card game based on lying and tricking your opponents. Should be a good time, and I love cards.

Cheers to a new chapter, new friends and the magic Argentina can offer on a sunny day.

Update from my Concrete Jungle

2009-08-27T18:59:00.001-07:00

I’ve been a bad blog owner and not written for far too long. So much has been happening – I feel like life is just a whirlwind right now. First I had my fabulous friend Lisa come and visit me and she and I trekked all over the city playing tourist. It was marvelous to have her here and get to chat girl talk. A little piece of home.

The ladies going out for the night: Meg, who also has made Argentina her home, me, Devon (who is leaving soon, so sad) and my visitor Lisa!

Right now I’m back to “real life” again: running all over the city trying to find a new apartment. It’s a little complicated, since renting a place in Argentina is not the easiest task. Renting like an Argentine is difficult, since you have to a) sign a lease for 2 years and b) need a “guarantor” or someone who owns property in Argentina be your co-signer. I was able to talk my work into being the guarantor and explored the offerings, but it is simply too big of an expense for my budget. First you have to pay the Immobiliaria, or rental agency, two months commission and then you also have to put down a one-month deposit. If you break your lease after a year, you loose the deposit and if you break it after six months, you have to pay an additional half month rent. Whoa. Top that off with the need to furnish a place, and it just ended up being a) too big of a commitment (I don’t know if I can love you for two more years, Argentina) and b) way out of my price range.

So I’m stuck doing what we foreigners do here: renting a furnished room in someone else’s apartment. You’re going to laugh: the main source for a roommate hunt here is Craigslist! They’re expensive, though – especially compared to my Argentine salary. It’s a challenge: I earn like an Argentine but I’m getting smacked with foreigner prices. Which means house hunting is a daunting task requiring lots of emails, phone calls and visits running all over the city. While I’d love to stay in my neighborhood, there doesn’t seem to be anything here. I did find one apartment I like and requested the room, but I’m waiting to hear back to see if I’ll get it.

Let me tell you that living in Argentina is not American-style comfortable. We’re talking about ancient buildings (swarming with broken paraphernalia), old furniture and a creepy roommate selection. While I did find a pretty good spot with a charming Argentine roommie, we can’t call it perfection. It’s all about deciding what’s most important and just how much you can compromise on the other items. I picked privacy and independence, so we’ll see just what I end up with.

That’s my little update! Living in the concrete jungle and trying to survive. I promise to adore my air conditioner even more when I get home. This experience has certainly taught me to appreciate how lovely we’ve got it as Americans (despite the political mess I hear is happening up there in my home country right now).

Besos! Hopefully I’ll be posting good news soon!

Connected

2009-08-06T19:03:00.000-07:00

After months of problems, we finally have the WiFi working at our house again! I’m truly excited and can’t believe I’ve been disconnected for so long. It really makes me appreciate this “modern” technology that we have. No WiFi meant no chats with friends and fam, and made me realize just how far away I am. It’s miraculous that an internet connection can bring me so much closer to the ones I love and adore.

I’ll be posting regular blogs again, and hopefully talking to all the people I miss back in the states again soon. Hugs, kisses, love and all those pink and blue happy thoughts. Beso!

Argentine Medicine: The curiosity and the trauma.

2009-07-04T06:47:00.000-07:00

Classic Argentine gestures indicating:
Frustration, Ridiculousness and Watch Out!

It turns out that I’m still alive… but I haven’t written for a long time due to lack of internet and an evil lingering cold that I’ve been fighting the last two months. Don’t think I haven’t been occupied, though. I’ve been enjoying the Argentine healthcare system (this is that moment where I wish sarcasm actually translated via blogs, jaja!). Here’s what I’ve got for you:

Maybe I’m a bit nervous to begin with, but it’s been a little traumatic trying to navigate Argentine medicine. Let’s start with the good news: I have absolutely amazing medical insurance. Everything has been completely free, and that’s phenomenal. I suppose I can’t really complain too much considering the above-mentioned detail, but I’m going to anyway.

We’ll start with routine medical care. As soon as I got insurance, I scheduled a regular doctor visit and just picked a clinic conveniently located next to my house. I should have known better: Randomly picking a doctor in any country is a bad idea. So I found myself in a dirty, old clinic waiting next to howling children for hours. Finally, I was called into my new doctor’s office—and he was impressively old. I mean, people that old don’t normally leave their beds in the morning, let alone practice medicine. As much as I’d love to adopt him as my new grandfather, his medical advice was far past expiration date and I think I’ll continue shopping around.

Going to the gynecologist, on the other hand, was a lovely experience. I got a cute, chatty porteña who told me to drop my panties and began the routine items we ladies are all used to. The only odd detail: instead of her keeping my cultures, she gave them to me to carry to the laboratory nearby. While I did my best to keep them safe in my giant purse, I couldn’t help thinking that in the US we’d be a little concerned about contamination. However, I liked her enough I’m not going to whine too much.

As I mentioned, I’ve also been sick. In fact, I’ve been really sick. For a long time. After developing a stuffy nose and a cough for the third time in the last two months I decided I wanted some good drugs and asked my co-workers what they do when they’re sick. Apparently here you don’t go visit your doctor for a cold; instead you have two options: (a) either “order-in” and a doctor will come to your house or (b) go to the emergency room. While option (a) sounds convenient, there’s a 48-hour window so if you’re like me and can’t stay in your house for 48 consecutive hours, you’re left with option (b).

My first ancient practioner experience demonstrated that random point-and-choose isn't the best technique for choosing a medical facility, so I asked around and ended up in an ER my friend recommended. It was filled with stuffy noses, appalling coughs and all other manner of strange afflictions. After waiting an hour and a half the youngest little doctor I have ever seen called me into a back room where I timidly purched on the edge of a cot, next to a convulsing man. While she tried to figure out how to turn on the light to look at my throat, I described my on-and-off illness and told her I was worried that I might have some problem that I couldn’t shake with my own immune system. She nodded gravely and then told me we were going to do some tests.

Armed with little slips of paper, I ventured off, asking directions to different sections of the hospital. First, I had a throat culture to verify I didn’t have strep throat (this seems normal enough). Next, I wandered downstairs… for x-rays? Since they’re called “ecolograms” here I didn’t actually realize that’s what I was getting into. Interestingly enough, I’ve never had anyone x-ray me for a sore throat and a cough before, but apparently in Argentina they need to see your skull to diagnose a cold. The x-ray technician was a young kid with a euro-mullet who began hitting on me shamelessly. “Please put your arms over your head, stand sideways, and by the way, do you have a boyfriend?” When we were done he let me know that my photos had turned out absolutely beautiful and that he had all my information “except your phone number!” I coughed and gave him my loveliest sick-face smile.

Returning to the main floor clutching my sexy x-rays and throat culture results, I began searching for my little tiny doctor. Apparently, she was done for the day. Instead, I was attended to by another young male doctor. Unfortunately, this one wasn’t charmed and didn’t want my phone number. Instead, he seemed infuriated by my inability to speak quickly. Due to the masses of people waiting, he was obviously in a hurry. At this point I had been there about three hours, I felt awful and I had a doctor huffing at me as I attempted to explain, in my nervous Spanish, why I was in his office. So I did something really productive: I started crying. The doctor didn’t care: in fact, he seemed even more irritated. How dare I cry when he had other people to attend to? He glanced at my x-rays, ordered me to breath, listened to my chest, prescribed me some allergy medicine and ceremoniously shoved me out the door. Three pharmacies later I finally managed to purchase my medicine and headed home on the bus with my x-ray souvenirs. Maybe next time I’ll try option (a).

This week I was also privileged enough to experience even more interesting Argentine medicine. My first ancient doctor had ordered blood tests and my lovely gynecologist informed me that uterus ultrasounds are a routine part of feminine healthcare. So Thursday morning I found myself in a bustling laboratory, with a urine sample in my purse, prepared for uncomfortable poking and prodding.

Actually, I have to say that the uterus ultrasound is a good idea since often feminine maladies aren’t discovered until you’ve got a serious problem. It was incredibly painless (although I couldn’t help but giggle like a 15 year-old when she put a lubricated condom on a wand and stuck it up my vagina) and I even got to see my special lady parts on TV. I left with more souvenir photos—even sexier than the chest x-rays! I get to go back for the blood test results in a few days and then I can schedule my follow-up visits…

It seems like the entire medical experience is not just the system, or the insurance, or the practitioner… but also a bit of random luck. At first I was feeling terrified by the whole experience, but I have to admit that my fear has morphed into curiosity as I’ve discovered they do so many odd new little things here. I suppose there are good and bad doctors everywhere… and getting all of the routine items checked off is a pain no matter where you live.

Next up? The dentist. I’ll let you know how it goes.

Salvation Soup

2009-05-27T11:53:00.000-07:00

I’m sick. You know that kind of sick where your head feels like it’s full of cotton balls and mucus? That’s me. Today at work I nearly burst into tears because someone was singing loudly. Obviously a sign I needed to go home.

Leaving work I briefly considered the option of taking a taxi, but decided that the bus was a better option and I trudged to the bus stop. Except there was no bus. I grumpily walked to the subte stop… and there was no subte. Apparently there’s a giant demonstration happening in the city center (where I work) which I was completely unaware of. This left me no choice but to hail a cab, except – where to find one? I spent about 20 minutes wandering up and down a maze of streets, drums and picketers before I finally encountered a taxi headed in my direction. I climbed into the cab and ceremoniously burst into tears. The taxi driver was more than generous, and once I was capable of speaking again we discussed the desperation that public transportation can produce. I arrived home in one (slightly tattered) piece.

Walking into my home, I was met with a giant smile and a big hug. Is there anything better than that? My roommie Natalia had just made the most aromatic, delicious pot of vegetable soup and we sat down and ate a warm, comforting lunch together. Seriously, I don’t think I’ve ever been so grateful for a bowl of soup before in my life. It was like drinking salvation.

I definitely still feel sick, but it's amazing how a little bit of love can completely turn around an awful day. Here’s to winter, being sick, cold toes, stupid protests, taxi drivers, hot soup and above all, good friends.

My coffee is bubbling and it speaks Spanish.

2009-05-23T00:09:00.000-07:00

Why is it that somedays I just don’t know? I don’t know what I want, I can’t figure out how I feel: decisions are illusive concepts floating just above the reach of my mental capacity. For some reason I think Argentina exaggerates this. I feel things more strongly, I take them more seriously – I am hit in the face by the most random, abstract little moments of what should be considered normalcy and then I’m confused.

And let’s not even talk about boys. That’s what I’m doing up at 4am: worrying about the “what-if’s” of the improbable. Dating in Argentina is like waking up one morning and discovering that when you pour your normal cup of morning coffee it starts bubbling and speaking Spanish. And you think, “WTF! I am SO not awake enough for this nonsense. I’m going back to bed. Wake me up when the coffee is drinkable.”

Ok, so I’m awake. I guess I’m just not prepared. You’d think that after being single for a couple years I’d be competent enough to go on a few dates and not be left laying awake all night chewing them through my tired little mind. No! That’s apparently not how it works. Apparently I’m still 16 inside when it comes to men. Except now I’ve got a healthy dose of cynicism to add to the mix. That’s probably why the coffee is bubbling. Why is it speaking Spanish? Obvio: that’s the Argentine factor.

I’m going to go kick something and try to go back to sleep now.

Oh baby, it's COLD outside!

2009-05-16T13:46:00.000-07:00

It getting really, really cold here. Last year I arrived in the middle of winter, but I lived in places with central heating so my home was always warm. This year it’s a bit different. With the open roof and the paper-thin walls I’m discovering a new meaning for “chilly.”

November, 2007: pre-Argentina.
These are the people I want to be warm with. Miss you guys!!

Argentina makes me realize just how cushy my American life was. I miss my cozy, warm car. I miss not having to walk 15 blocks in the rain to work. I miss having central heating at home and at work.

This big, cold concrete city is teaching me how to be a little more resilient. There are so many things here that are just not easy the way things were in the states. I’ve learned to budget and live on a pittance of what I used to make in Cali. I’ve learned how to communicate in another language - personally and professionally - and simply refuse to give up even when no one understands me and I look like an idiot! I’ve figured out how to navigate a giant city without a car. I’ve learned to tolerate being pushed and shoved on buses and subways and in stores and in lines. I’ve discovered patience while waiting for 15 hours in a government office. I’ve learned how to be truly alone and appreciate my independence.

That’s just the way it is here. And, well, maybe I’m a little stubborn too. There is a part of me that relishes the daily challenges and feels life is sometimes more valuable when you have to work hard for it.

Other days I just don’t feel so tough. On these days I miss my cozy, warm, cushy little American life. I have to admit at the moment I’d really love to crawl into my car and drive home and curl up in front of the fireplace with the people I love. I suppose I’ll have to content myself with a cup of hot coffee and Skype for now. And when I make it back some day, you better believe I’ll appreciate those little comforts in an entirely new way.

Ruda Must Live!

2009-05-08T02:39:00.000-07:00

Lately it's started to get cold at my house. We have a small table covered with struggling little plants. Since I’m a bit of an "indoor gardener" I am genuinely concerned about the survival of our tiny green friends. One, in particular, seems to be close to the end of his little plant life. He has sad, dry, shrunken little leaves. His name is Ruda.

Personally, I think Ruda’s sad state is a result of my roommie, Nati’s good intentions: immediately after purchasing him she decided to relocate Ruda to a rather large clay pot. Unfortunately, he didn't have time to root in well before the cold hit.

However, Nati she has a completely different theory. Ruda plants are said to have the power to absorb energy in a home. You are supposed to place them at the door of your house to suck up all the negative vibes. If the leaves get dry and it wilts, it means there is an overabundance of bad energy in your home. According to my Nati, our neighbors are spawning evil energy and therefore the plant is dying. In fact, the current Ruda is a replacement for a previous version who met a similar fate: it shriveled all up and died. I thought it was due to the fuzzy white bugs growing on it's leaves but according to Nati there's evil energy somewhere in our building.

I've always loved houseplants because they do have a bit of personality. Plants appear to be just "objects" but if you get to know them you discover they have personalities, they respond to attention, they love it if you talk to them, they appreciate sun and fertilizer and other little plant treats. Apparently, Ruda is sacrificing his tiny plant life for us by keeping our house warm and loving. He’s protecting and saving us.

Regardless of if it’s an untimely re-potting or an abundance of negative energy, I'm worried about the little guy. I want him to live. I want him to be happy. Somehow it seems so symbolic and sweet, and while my logical brain knows the rational explanation for plant troubles, my heart reaches out to Ruda’s little fight for the joy in our home.

Saying Goodbye and Starting Over

2009-05-03T11:51:00.000-07:00

This was a sad week. Two of my girlfriends left, and my best friend, Natalie is leaving next week. So my recent activities included moping and good-bye parties. Top that with some male rejection and I’m left feeling a bit blue.

I suppose that it’s just the life of a foreigner, but this is the third time I’m “starting over” with friends. The problem is we are all transient: we’ll all leave eventually; even me. The Argentines know that! They don’t want to get too attached to us either.

Here’s the rainbow, though: I’m getting better at making new friends. That’s never been a personal strong point but this year has definitely forced me to be proactive about cultivating relationships, especially with other females. It’s amazing how effective a smile and a couple text messages can be. The people I’ve met here in Buenos Aires are all so interesting: everyone arrives with a story and a sparkle to them. The average escaping American I meet here is much higher caliber than the average person I meet in the US. While I’m lamenting the fact that my friends are leaving, I feel lucky to have met them, since they’ve each enriched my life in so many ways.

Someday I do have a desire to settle into a city and simply stay. Develop a network of close friends that I can keep for years. True intimacy doesn’t happen overnight, and I deeply miss the people who are close to my heart. For the time being, though, I’m planning to direct my energy into meeting more permanent friends… foreigners and Argentines… and maybe “starting over” won’t be so bad. I’m sure each person will contribute their own personal magic for a journey of discovery and hopefully a little adventure too!

New Bed! (Happy Dance)

2009-05-02T08:22:00.001-07:00

Stitch loves our new bed too.

I bought a new bed; I'm completely ecstatic! It is my first large purchase in Argentina and I think it might mean I'm settling in a little bit. I'll have to stick around long enough to get some use out of it :)

A bed was also completely necessary. The need for new sleeping accommodations became obvious a couple weeks ago when the old bed ceremoniously crashed to the ground with a frightening thump. Not only did that scare me, but I began wondering if it was time for a diet?! Anyhoo, I did a janky repair job which left me sleeping tilted downwards and to the left. I've been reluctant to actually go make a big new purchase since I'm not 100% sure about housing and living at the moment, but the dreams of sliding down walls, hills, and mountains slowly convinced me.

Bed shopping was in and of itself an interesting experience. I trekked all over the city and peeked my head into a myriad of different stores. This confirmed the absolutely appalling customer service that is often found in Argentina. A bed is a fairly large purchase; you'd think SOMEONE would want to help me. Sheesh. Most stores only have a couple different options, so I had to visit to quite a few places in order to encounter any selection. Finally, I found a decent store and had fun laying all over beds and hearing about springs in Spanish.

I thought I actually had made a decision, when I was wandering through my neighborhood and I saw THE store. I'm not sure why it was THE store, but it was. I felt it the moment I saw the big, tacky green sign. The woman was magically helpful, engaged me in a rambling discussion about Obama and US politics, told me truly useful bed-related information and had an impressive selection. So I signed the little dotted line and they delivered it this morning.

I'm sitting in my new bed right now. It's needing some new throw pillows, but that's besides the point. It's glorious, it's marvelous; I LOVE it. Sweet dreams :)

Stop Searching: Find Peace

2009-04-27T18:14:00.000-07:00

I was riding the subte today and I saw a big poster advertising a book… I don’t remember the exact title, but it basically said “stop searching, find peace.” I haven’t read this book, so I don’t really know what it’s about, but the title prompted pondering.

On one hand, they’re right. I identify with that statement: I find myself always thinking about the future, wondering about what’s next, dreaming, moving, wanting, waiting. I’ve got a busy head. I think about things (and obsess about things) and it keeps me mentally occupied (especially when I’m pondering life at 3am). I wouldn’t say it’s really “peaceful” inside my head. What if I really could stop searching? What if my head just stopped churning around and around and was quiet? That does sound kind of peaceful.

On the other hand, that also sounds suspiciously to me like an invitation to stop thinking and become stagnant. I think it can be easy to decide at some point that you simply accept your position in life, settle in and stop moving. That’s why people stay in dead-end jobs, boring towns, and bland relationships. They don’t have motivation to make changes. Life isn’t bad; it isn’t good. They’re peaceful. It just is.

I definitely believe there is value in being a peaceful person. It would be frightening if everyone’s head was full of the same thoughts as mine. I appreciate my calming, peaceful friends because I certainly need them.

However, I’m proud to be a searcher myself. I actually am grateful for my own discontent in many ways. It’s carried me to Argentina, it’s motivated me, it’s inspired me, and it keeps my head full of interesting things. It seems to me that depending on how you look at that particular characteristic, it can be either an incredible, motivating force or a difficult, frustrating feeling. For me, I’m grateful for my busy head (aside from those 3am moments) and I appreciate the thirst for improvement, the desire to discover, the search for meaning and interest.

I do hope to someday find a little place in the world and settle in. It would be nice to be more peaceful at some point, yet I don’t ever want to be complacent or stale. I never ever want to give up dreaming, thinking, pondering. To me those items are far too valuable, even if they cost me some sleep.

Life is like Step Aerobics (I'm serious!)

2009-04-17T18:55:00.000-07:00

Yesterday I went to step aerobics, at my gym: the ostentatious Megatlon. I’ve been attending this class since about January. On my first day I stood there helplessly watching whirling Argentines dance around me. Background: I’ve been doing step aerobics for about 13 years now. I generally don’t claim to be good a physical activities (especially not sports-related activities) however I’m good at step aerobics. In the US I can walk into a class and generally follow it. I managed to accomplish step classes in Spain. I was expecting Argentina to be similar… but it’s not.

Step aerobics here involves hip movement, rhythm, coordination and multiple dizzying turns and twists. Also, no one calls out the movements for you. Sorry, honey, but you’ve got to just remember them all. You get combo numbers: an “Uno!” or a “Dos!” or a “Tres!” screamed and you better know what to do.

The best thing about the step classes, though, is the comradery. Although I might not be the best stepper, I’m part of a group that doesn’t require me to speak. For that little moment, I’m equal with all the other tripping, twirling, gyrating Argentines. Another lovely thing about step class is that Argentines also cheer for their step instructor (Claudio) when he does something interesting. It’s phenomenal. Little twist, new, cool step and you’ve got clapping and “eehhh!!”

I started out pretty awful at Argentine step aerobics. But I’m getting better. Each class I manage to turn just a few more times (in the right direction) and I am able to bumble my way to the end now (more or less).

So why am I blogging about step aerobics, anyhoo? Because in order to get a combination right, you have to just keep trying. You get it wrong the first time. You try again. You miss a step, skip it and try to jump back in where you can. Maybe I missed the entire combo “Uno!” but I recognized the first few steps of “Dos!” and I’m back in the game again. And each time I stumble my way through a combo, I do something just a little more right. Maybe I forget a few steps, but I’ll catch up if I just keep going. The important part is to not give up; don’t stop trying; don’t stop moving. Because as soon as you stand still: that’s it. You’ll never get it right.

Life is like that. My entire Argentine experience is like that. You just keep trying. You make so many mistakes, but the only way to move forward is to keep moving, keep trying and not get stuck on the error. If you stand still, that’s it: You’ll never get it right. Who knows? You might actually start enjoying it. Eeehh!

Bad Spanish Day

2009-04-14T18:39:00.000-07:00

Yes, that’s what I said. A bad Spanish day. These things happen. It’s part of the expat life...

I was trying to explain a relatively simple request at work and I had a confused Argentine looking at me like I had horns growing out of my ears. Thankfully, someone else understood, but remarked that the reason my first request was unsuccessful was because I had asked in a slightly idiotic way. At which point I wanted to throw something at someone’s head. Both men were appealing targets.

I’m irritated. Seriously, every day I try all day long to get people to understand me. I subject myself to being criticized, stared at, laughed at, embarrassed and ignored. EVERY DAY.

This particular day, today, I’m just a little frustrated. It’s all making me tired. I’m feeling like my desire to keep making an effort is running a bit dry. Guess what, though? I’m gonna wake up tomorrow and give it another go. And if I keep trying long enough maybe someday I’ll be able to express myself in a fabulously eloquent manner and people will marvel at what a clever, charming, intelligent woman I am. Or maybe they just won’t laugh at me. I’ll take either scenario.

Gallivanting About

2009-04-11T09:00:00.000-07:00

Home. After a few weeks of big adventures, I’ve finally settled back into my home. It’s kind of amazing that this strange little spot carries that label for me, but absolutely true. I love taking a vacation and feeling grateful to return home. That’s how you know it was a good break: you create fabulous memories and have wonderful experiences and you distance yourself just enough from “real life” that you can return and actually want to do it again.

So what was I up to anyway? Well…

Parents
My parents came to visit for 3 weeks. We walked a lot, we talked a lot, and we really ate a lot. It was phenomenal to have the opportunity to share my little home with them. My expat life is very different, and I loved showing it off. Now they understand when I talk about how ham is a condiment in Argentina and the taxi drivers are crazy and they play bad 80’s music and my shoes have holes in them.

Iguazu
Gorgeous, spectacular waterfalls. Despite sweltering weather and a snooty hotel the falls were amazing and I will never forget the views. Really, I don’t think I can describe it, so I’ll just say WOW!

Cariló
This could be my favorite part of the whole trip. We spent 3 days being lazy and content at a quaint little seaside village. They had pine trees, phenomenal shopping and crisp ocean air. Dad learned how to use an Argentine bar-b-que and we sat around playing cards and chatting. That weekend is a memory I can cuddle up with on rainy cold lonely days: those moments hold warmth and love for me.

Buenos Aires, of course!
Where do I even start? Browsing street vendors at the fair in San Telmo, wandering through the vast Recoleta Cemetery, peeking into museums, walking through Palermo’s gardens, Mom getting an eye infection and wearing a patch, having trouble finding apartments, finally finding something perfect, shopping, eating, laughing, drinking. And now they know. This is my home: big, rowdy, chic, bustling and always interesting.

Who’s next? Come visit me!

Día Internacional de la Mujer

2009-03-08T10:30:00.000-07:00

Today is the International Day of the Woman. Despite the progressive nature of my country, darling America, you forgot this one. The United Nations recognizes it! An important holiday!

I've been rather curious to discover why we women have a special holiday. What exactly are we celebrating here? It's a day to honor the historic struggle of women to gain equality and respect. I like that.

Next question: What do the Argentines DO to celebrate the day of the woman? Apparently, since I'm female my husband/boyfriend should bring me flowers and cook me dinner. Unfortunately I don't have a husband/boyfriend. Therefore, I can't celebrate? I'm a little confused. This is only a holiday if you have a significant other? Why on earth does the Day of the Woman require I have a MAN to celebrate? I find that infuriating.

Alternative solution: I think during Dia de la Mujer all the women should ditch their men and meet in the parks to drink mate, eat chocolate and gossip about girlieness such as hair, nails and how we really feel. I like this idea so much better. That would be a real celebration of femininity.

Maybe I'll start my own chocolate-eating holiday.

Here to Stay

2009-03-04T16:54:00.000-08:00

Today I checked my email and there was a letter from Continental Airlines reminding me to check in for my flight. Yes, that's right. I have a flight leaving Buenos Aires in an hour. And here I am, in my little apartment writing a blog instead. I'm not going home. I'm staying here. I have absolutely no plans to leave.

It was one of those odd moments when I saw the email from Continental. Like vaugly remembering that it's the birthday of your ex-boyfriend. Almost important. Not quite.

I suppose that means I'm here to stay. This better be fun! And well, if not... it's going to be a hell of a story someday.

Raindrops keep fallin' on my head...

2009-03-02T15:56:00.000-08:00

This is my roof. Well-ventilated.

Last night it was pouring down rain. Amazing, beautiful, strange rain. How is it possible that it's raining, horribly humid and hot at the same time? No, but it was spectacular because I have a plastic roof. I'm not kidding. It leaks a little, but I don't mind raindrops on my head so much. You just need to know which chair *not* to sit in. I mean, I know I've talked about my roof before (because it opens and closes and that's simply weird!) but I haven't mentioned how it SOUNDS yet. It was so loud that I had to yell to talk to my roommate. And I fell asleep listening to that fabulous sound. Today it was sunny. I'm feeling love for Argentina. (Except for the part where I couldn't round up enough monedas to take the bus. But that's a whole other story entirely.)

Sleepytime Pondering

2009-02-26T19:29:00.000-08:00

Sometimes I feel so anonymous in this big city. Riding the subte or a bus, I look around and see countless faces. So many people look so tired. They have worn lines on their faces, left from years of worry, remnants of the events they've survived. People stare vacantly at the wall, squished together uncomfortably. There's really nothing else to look at.

You could look at the person next to you, but that's sort of rude. You really can't help it, though. Looking around, suddenly you realize the crowd actually consists of unique individual people. Sometimes people smile and laugh together, couples cuddle and kiss, children cling to their mother's hands. There are small people and big people. People with gorgeous hair and thin straggly hair. Women wearing stilettos and men in crumpled button-downs. There are beautiful people with smooth Argentine skin and then there are people who are ugly people with crooked teeth and disheveled clothing. And you realize that you're just one of the masses. Throngs of people enter and exit, and if you don't bother to look close, well, they're just more people. They smell, they breathe, they move slowly along, trying to claim their tiny little places.

The other day I watched an itty bitty girl attempting to eat potato chips out of a bag. She could have tipped the bag and they would have fallen into her hand. Instead, reached into the bag to grab them, but it was too small for her hand so she spent inordinate amounts of time claiming each individual chip. She had a small round face and a flouncy red jumper. I watched, mesmerized by the awkward chip ritual, until her mother finally grabbed her roughly by the hand and dragged her off the subte, hand still stuck in the plastic. Today I watched a couple coddle together, the man whispering into the woman's ear as she giggled coyly and rubbed his leg. Yesterday I saw an obviously drunk group of boys; one of them with his head between his knees as his friends teased him mercilessly. I saw a woman wearing a neon paisley-print leotard on the way to the gym, her long manicured nails curled around the handle of a designer duffel bag. I saw an old woman distractingly gazing at me this morning, her eyes empty and her brown skin wrinkled and worn. They're just people. Lots of them.

Walking down the broken, littered streets here you doge the most stunning array of humanity. The lost tourists, the dusty obnoxious workers, the smartly suited business men, the chattering group of teenagers all jostling for a place on the narrow sidewalk. It exhausts me.

I have a student who is tired. He's been living in this big city for 15 years and he doesn't like it. His life isn't bad at all. In fact it's pretty good. He's successful, he lives in a beautiful house, he drives a nice car. Yet he's not happy; something is missing for him. I think that this city has just worn him down year after year and he can't escape. How many people live mediocre lives that simply aren't bad enough to risk changing? I often think that people walk around like zombies, repeating the same monotonous routine every day without noticing. It's just their lives. It's just how it is.

I wonder what people see when they look at me. If they even notice at all? They can't see my story. They probably don't know I've come thousands of miles to join them in their big city. I'm just one more person. Not incredible in any way, just one more person.

It strikes me that we all need to belong. We need to be wanted. Being just one of the hundreds of thousands of bodies wandering Buenos Aires isn't enough. The reason people find meaning and purpose is because someone somewhere cares about them and believes they're important. My student continues every day because he has a family: a wife and two daughters. They're his world; they make his life beautiful.

It's late at night and I can't sleep. I feel like just a little empty dot; one more little person living her little life. Thankfully, I do have people who love me and care about me. I just wish they weren't so very far away.

2009: Stability and Progress

2009-01-03T21:16:00.000-08:00

Well, it's been awhile since I've posted a blog and a lot has been happening in my little life! The holidays came and went and I have to admit I'm a little relieved it's over now. I definitely missed home and family. Layne left right before Christmas and I can't stop missing her and then all my other friends promptly went out of town. However I managed to enjoy all the good little moments, although it didn't really feel like Christmas sweating in the sun, eating bar-b-que asado and watching fireworks. New Year's ended up being phenomenal: I went to a big banquet dinner at a club here in town and danced the night away in too-high painful heels (which looked hot, btw!) with my roommate Natalia.

I'm really loving my new apartment, specifically because of my awesome roommates. Natalia is precious, and Lucia is amazing too. They're both Argentine and only speak Spanish so I'm finally getting some good language practice. We also have an unusual wheezing cat named Oscar. He's got cat AIDS and is only about half alive and has no hair (I'm not kidding). I'm a little scared of him but we've manage to establish an unspoken agreement that if he doesn't get on my bed I'll feed him. The building itself is absolutely ancient, everything leaks, and I've got a living room/dining room/patio that is "open air" with a ceiling that opens and shuts. Sort of strange but also charming in a rustic way. My room is huge and I've done some creative decorating to make it mine. I nailed tree branches to my wall and hung all my jewelry on them and it turned out really cool. Wall art! I'll post pics soon but right now my laptop is on the fritz so I can't download all my recent photos. Hope to be getting that fixed soon! Although no computer has provided great motivation for some extra reading, and since all the books in our house are in Spanish it's been a fairly productive pastime.

My job is also evolving well. I started in the Customer Service department listening to lots of complaints and after my first 6 weeks have just received a promotion! I'm the New Projects Director now. The job is very well suited for me because it utilizes my talents: creative vision and organization. I'm coordinating the development of new websites from scratch. This means I get to invent the blueprint of the site, work with our designer to make it look gorgeous, work with our IT programmers to make it function and work with a team to generate all of the content. I'll be doing a lot of research and writing, but I'm most excited because I've got a lot of freedom to make the projects my own. It should be an excellent challenge and I'll be making a tiny bit more money: always motivational! I'm still teaching English on the side for a little extra money as well, which is nice too. I'm pretty attached to my students and would hate to let them go!

I also joined a phenomenal gym around the corner from my house and have been attending schizophrenic aerobic classes and trying to follow the weights plan my trainer designed for me. It's sort of fun: when you sign up at a gym here they assign you a trainer for free and then that person keeps track of you and gives you all sorts of things to do. I feel like my trainer is always laughing at me, though, because I don't know the names of any of the muscles or machines in Spanish, resulting in a lot of gesturing. But I'm learning! Much more monitored than our gyms back home. I'm really liking it.

As the new year rolled around I found myself wondering about the feared New Year's Resolutions. Here in Argentina they don't do resolutions, they do Deseos del Año Nuevo (New Year's Desires). I think I might like this better, since it is a little less pressure! Everyone knows you never keep New Years Resolutions! The past few years have been tumultuous and full of change for me, and my desire for 2009 is stability and progress. I've finally managed to make it to a sustainable point in my life. I've got somewhere to live, a good job and I'm working on a social network to support me and make it fun. So now I want to just "be" for a little bit and enjoy the moment. Argentina provides enough surprises I don't think I need to be generating any more big changes on my own. I want to work on establishing a life and living it, which I haven't been able to do for a long time. I am finally in a position to accomplish my personal goals and focus on developing my life and career, and I'm really ready for that. Of course, life has a way of throwing you curveballs so I'm prepared to be flexible. If anything, the past few years have taught me to adapt and take what comes for what it is. But since I get a deseo, here it is: tranquility in the moment. Let's have 2009 be a calm and stable one!

Just so you know, I miss you all and my heart has been at home for the holidays, even if I didn't make it in person. I'm sending hugs to all my loved ones! Cheers and Happy New Year!

Thankful

2008-11-27T06:00:00.000-08:00

This weekend I went on a magical dream vacation! Layne, my little friend from Arkansas with her sweet southern twang, and I went to Mendoza. It’s the wine-growing region here in Argentina, close to Chile at the base of the Andes Mountains. It’s famous for the amazing Malbec wine produced there, and rightly so because it’s delicious! The wine was, of course, what lured me there, but the city is completely captivating as well.

Mendoza’s tranquil tree-lined streets are a welcome contrast to my own busy city. They have a charming park with giant gurgling fountains, and a pedestrian street with a canopy of green and a myriad of outdoor dining options. Layne and I wandered all over the city center, which was feasible since it’s fairly small, peeking into tourist shops, perusing the artesian vendors and grabbing drinks at patio tables. We had a killer hotel, very cute and mod and we discovered our first day there that they had an empty Jacuzzi on the top floor of the building. Due to the heat, we commenced to fill it to the top with freezing cold water, climbed in, and downed a bottle of Rose while gazing at the Andes in the distance and chattering about boys, life, love and the bright promises of the future. It was idyllic.

On day 2 we had a wine tour booked and our adorable guide, Julia, showed up bright and early to whisk us off to wine land. We started at the Finca Decero winery where we had the luxury of touring a brand-new facility. The tour was incredible, and I felt like I learned a lot about the wine-making process and the grapes here in Argentina. It was also very educational to see all of the newest equipment available. Everything they used was pristine, stainless steel, perfect condition. Their philosophy is “amano” which means “by hand” and they worked very hard to integrate this branding into the construction of the winery. The vineyards and the views were incomparable; the mountains in the distance gave it a magical feeling. The day couldn’t have started out better!

We then got to taste their wines, which were phenomenal. I purchased a bottle of their Malbec, but their blend was also amazing even though I couldn’t afford to take it home! In addition, I had the opportunity to try a 100% petit verdot, which might not mean much to many people, but it’s normally a blending grape, so tasting this varietal was a treat for me.

Next we went to Achaval Ferrer, which is a winery that does a lot of exporting to the US. Their wines were pretty expensive, but very good and we were able to taste three different Malbecs. My favorite was the Mirador, a big spicy accosting wine. Yum! Each were 100% Malbec varietals, but tasted completely different based on where they had been grown and the composition of the soil in that region. It was very interesting! I enjoyed the compare and contrast lesson.

For our third winery, we headed to Ruca Malen. We had another wine tour there, and then sat down to a lovely six-course meal with wine pairings. The little outdoor patio where we ate was divine, with a breeze blowing big white curtains and vineyards surrounding us. I couldn’t have asked for better company either; by the third winery Julia, myself and Layne were absolute chatterboxes and thoroughly enjoyed one another’s company.

Finally, we visited a tiny hidden little winery, called Carmelo Patti. Carmelo himself, since he is one of their only two employees, gave us a tour. The reason I enjoyed this tour so much was that everything there is genuinely made by hand. In contrast to the first place we visited, which was brand new, sparkling and clean, Carmelo’s winery was old, with Malbec-stained walls and ancient concrete vats to ferment the wine. It had that charm that antiques possess, and after our tour I wasn’t the least surprised to discover his wine was meticulously crafted. Beautiful, soft flavors with complex subtlety: the man is an artist. It was the only place without a tour in English, so I happily contented myself with his romantic wine explanations in Spanish.

That night Layne and I went to dinner at a place called Winery, a wine-store chain with locations throughout the country. It was one of the best meals I’ve had here: perfectly cooked short ribs with a divine red-wine sauce accompanied by a beautiful Syrah. Such perfection is hard to find and I assure you we savored it on that little patio covered in flowering vines, serenaded by a fountain and mod lounge music. Bliss.

Of course, I eventually had to come home. Which meant an 18-hour bus ride. This sounds horrific, but it wasn’t too bad. The buses here are amazingly comfortable, and you can put your seat back so it’s almost like a bed. Fairly luxurious, all things considered! On Tuesday I started my new job and it’s exactly as expected. Easy but steady and secure. I’m grateful for the work and I think I’ll be happy there for now. My co-workers are all really sweet and young as well, so that’s always a good bonus. This Sunday I make my big move too! Lots of excitement happening in Amber-land.

Well, today is Thanksgiving. I don’t think I’ve ever felt more apathetic about a holiday. It could just be the heat. It’s sweltering here right now. I woke up sweating. The so-called “holiday season” is upon us, and I can’t seem to get excited in any fashion. In fact, it just seems odd to gaze into shop windows and see Christmas trees and snowmen ornaments. Like my iPod accidentally started playing Jingle Bells in July while I was in my swimsuit driving to the beach. Just doesn’t seem quite right, you know? The good part about this is that I don’t feel sad. Confused maybe, nostalgic, yes… but sad? No. It all seems to me more of a curious phenomenon than something I’m actually missing. I might shed a tear or two today when I talk to my mom, but overall I’m really too hot and too busy to care much at all.

So when it’s time to say what you’re grateful for this thanksgiving, I recommend sending some love out to your air conditioner. I’ll content myself with giving thanks for fabulous wine :)

Engrossed in a Book

2008-11-20T02:53:00.000-08:00

The apartment where I currently live is full of books. Most of them are not novels, but works of literature, from famous Latin American authors like Borges or Paublo Nerudo. Collections of short stories and poems line the shelves. I’ve been enchanted by this impressive collection, but haven’t made much progress through the pages. I attempted a book of short stories in Spanish and was convinced the author had written a story about a giant whale that fell from the sky and landed in the middle of Buenos Aires, spewing blood down the streets. Charming, no? Really, I couldn’t understand the book very well, although I finished it. Since I’m here I’ve felt obligated to read in Spanish and so I’ve labored through books and magazines, but haven’t found that quiet respite that a good book brings to it’s reader.

Then a few days ago I was perusing the shelves and an ancient little novel caught my eye. Around the World in 80 Days. I had read it as a teenager, and I quickly grabbed it and hid it away, because not only did it promise a little adventure, but it’s in English. So I’m reading this divine little story and it’s completely enthralled me. I’ve been reading on the bus, on the subte, as I wait for my classes, standing in line waiting in the incomparably slow government offices… I can’t let it go. Because it’s an absolute treat. It’s completely delighted me. I’m almost done now and I can’t help but mourn the end of the book, because I want to keep reading forever. This tiny, old tattered book has returned me to my childhood, when I learned the secret of walking and reading as a teenager because I could never put down my book. The bus driver who took me to middle school would worry I’d fall down the bus steps because my eyes wouldn’t leave the pages. Truly, a good book is a tiny blissful blessing. Loves it!

Hey, I've got some big news!

2008-11-13T16:24:00.001-08:00

I’ve been in Argentina for a little over four months now and it’s been an interesting start to my voyage. I feel like I have made a serious effort to establish myself here, but it’s been challenging and teaching English just hasn’t been paying the bills. So I’ve been working on making adjustments to improve my little life!

First, I got a job!!! A “real” job working in an office for a place called Lead to Realty. It’s a US company that matches real estate buyers and sellers with agents. I’ll start out as a customer service representative and the vision is that I will be able to move around in the company if I do well. They are expanding the business right now so it’s a perfect time to join in. For me, the major benefit of this job is stability. I’ll receive a steady paycheck, and I will be able to go to one (air conditioned!) place all day every day! I appreciate a professional atmosphere, so I think it will be nice for me to have a job where I am taken seriously. I’ll also be legal which means medical benefits and paid days off! Pretty luxurious! I start the 25^th so I’m sure I’ll have lots more to say later. Right now I’m trying to get paperwork for my visa… aahhh! Huge hassle, made worse by the fact that I’m gathering US documents from Argentina. It will probably be a couple of months before everything is acquired and processed, but once I accomplish it, my life will be a lot easier: I’ll get paid more and I’ll start receiving my benefits. Whoo! Then I can go to the dentist!

Second, I found a new place to live!! While the boys I live with are lovely people, I’m ready for a girly house. And I found one! I’m moving in with two Argentine girls, both my age, who are in their last year of college. They are very, very nice and the house feels like a nice little home. It’s a bit smaller and has more character than the place I am in now, but it’s SO much quieter, in a more residential neighborhood and it’s cheaper. They also have a sad old cat who is loosing all of her hair. Bonus: they only speak Spanish so I’m going to get a little more practice. I think it’s a much better fit for me than my current living situation, so I’m pretty excited.

Third, I’m going on vacation next weekend. It’s my last “hurrah” before settling in and getting serious with work. Layne and I are going wine tasting in Mendoza. It’s going to be quiet and relaxing. We’re going to eat too much and drink too much and talk about girly things like shoes all weekend long. Completely divine! Expect pictures.

That’s all my news for the moment, wish me luck! Lots of big changes (and challenges, I’m sure) coming up for me. Truly, it’s a step in the right direction. I’m doing the best to pull together all the parts my life to make it something I enjoy living.

A little bit of everything (including muskrats)

2008-11-01T11:55:00.000-07:00

Sarah, this is YOUR pet!!!

Let’s start this blog with the ZOO! They’ve got a zoo here in Buenos Aires and it’s pretty awful. They don’t have a hippopotamus and their elephants look like they are about to expire. Actually, most of the animals looked pretty pathetic. However, there is one animal that is alive and thriving: the muskrat. At least that’s what I think those giant rodents were. Not only are the muskrats healthy: they are abundant. Here in Argentina they don’t think rodents the size of dogs should be in a cage. Oh, no, let them run free all over the park. So, everywhere we looked there were giant muskrats sitting on benches, cooling themselves under trees, taking a dip in the lake with the flamingos and eating peanuts out of children’s hands. Lovely!

El Alteneo: making Barne's and Noble look boring.

Other fun adventures for this month include visiting El Alteneo, which is a magnificent cathedral which was converted into a library. It’s one of the most peaceful, gorgeous locations I’ve found in the city. Perfect for hiding in a book! Also, I’ve been enjoying the pretty plazas here in Argentina now that the weather is so nice. Perfect spring afternoons for sitting outside and drinking a glass of champagne!

Lane and I, about to go get some drinks!

Finally, we silly Americans decided to give Halloween a try here in Argentina. It was loads of fun riding the bus wearing devil’s ears. Despite the lack of candy corn, we managed to all look ridiculous and enjoy one another’s company.

Me, wearing my devil's ears that were made from a plastic pasta wrapper, Natalie with her home-made hippie costume and Nina who is... uh... a superhero?

"Worst-Case Scenario" Vacation

2008-10-21T18:52:00.000-07:00

You know that little voice inside your head that sometimes whispers to you “self, is this REALLY a good idea?” That voice? It’s always right. So why on earth do we ignore it, huh? I’ve got a fabulous example for you:

Last weekend I went on a disaster vacation. It was a last-minute decision: myself and five other friends threw caution to the wind and booked a trip with some random travel agency. Hey, it was the only place that we could find accommodations two days before Oktoberfest. All the hotels in the tiny city of Villa General Belgrano, outside of Cordoba, were booked up so we figured this was the next-best option. When I talked to the travel agent, it did sound a little “rustic” and I felt slightly worried… but all my friends were going and I figured, “What the hell? It will be fun!"

Sam and I: ignorance is bliss.

It started out just lovely. We left Friday night and slept on a big, comfy bus. They showed stupid movies in English, we drank wine and chatted excitedly. About 9 am the next morning we arrived to the “camp” where we were staying. It was cute! Exactly like summer camp as a child: bunk beds in cabins, a big eating area, little ducks running around and a giant bar-b-q. Aside from the fact that I had to take a cold shower and there was only one bathroom for 20 girls, it wasn’t too bad. The problem, though, was our bus couldn’t get to the campground. It was down a long, bumpy dirt road. Instead, we had to be shuttled down the road in groups, which turned out to be a giant pain. Group one had to load up and be dropped off, then the bus had to come back to get group two. This added about an hour onto any destination. Despite the inconvenient shuttle system, it still seemed like the weekend had lots of potential and we started off in high spirits.

Natalie likes animals (even ugly, molting chickens).

The first day at the campground was spectacularly warm and sunny. Girls were lying out in little bikinis and people were sweating as they drank their beers and played ping pong. We were supposed to leave at 2pm for Oktoberfest, however since this is Argentina and time is simply NOT an issue, we didn’t leave until about 4:30. Then we had to go in groups on the stupid shuttle, so by the time we all got on the bus it was about 5:30 and we were hungry, grumpy and hot. Then the bus had to stop for gas. At last we got on the road for the big event. We had been told that our campground was about an hour from the festival. This was a LIE. It took about 2 hours to get there and by the time we arrived it was about 7:30 and starting to get dark. Not just dark, but cold and drizzly too. Since the day had been so warm, no one had thought to bring jackets. We were dressed in little skirts and t-shirts, happily ignorant of any weather concerns.

The festival was fabulous. We arrived to dancing, singing and overall merriment. Thrilled to finally be there we immediately purchased giant beer mugs and filled them with delicious sweet dark beer. Starving, we ordered polish hot dogs stuffed with cheese, wrapped in ham and topped with mounds of sauerkraut. My friend Layne and I sat down at a table and began devouring our food. It started raining and I looked at her and said, “I am so hungry I don’t even care that it’s raining!” With a little giggle, she agreed “I know! I’m starving! It doesn’t even matter.” But then I noticed my bun was getting soggy, because the rain was becoming more insistent. The drops were getting larger and both my food and I were getting wetter and wetter. I finally caved, “I think we better move!” We got up and just as we began moving towards shelter, the sky started dumping buckets of water on us. The nearest cover was a tacky little plastic table with an inadequate plastic umbrella. We attempted to huddle underneath it, but rain rolled down my back and down Layne’s arms. We watched, horrified, as people ran helter-skelter, holding chairs over their heads and climbing underneath tables. It was a mess. And it didn’t stop. The rain continued all night long. During a brief respite we reunited with the rest of our friends and we all attempted to make the best of the situation, drinking and laughing and trying to have positive attitudes. But reality exists: it was cold, we were wet, and our bus didn’t leave until midnight.

When it was finally time to leave we were more than happy to climb aboard the bus and head back to camp. Visions of a warm cabin and dry clothes filled our fuzzy little beer-heads. After the two-hour drive back to the campground the first group crawled onto the little shuttle, freezing and huddling together to try and stay warm. I sat shivering next to my friend Sam as we started down the dirt road. But we didn’t get too far: the bus got stuck! We sat there in despair as the wheels spun in the mud. After a miserable 45 minutes it was obvious that the situation was completely hopeless and we returned to the bus. They put on a movie and told us to just wait tight.

The problem, of course, was there were no hotels because it was Oktoberfest. So after a night of phone calls the trip coordinators finally secured a dump for us to stay at. Of course it wasn’t ready, so we took shelter in a very classy Shell station where we waited for 4 hours drinking coffee and wishing it wasn’t 5am. At last we headed to our dirty, smelly hotel where we continued waiting for another few hours. About 11am myself and my two girlfriends, Natalie and Layne, got a room. Layne bought some soap and we showered and fell into bed, grateful regardless of the pathetic accommodations. When we woke up we were pleased to discover that our things had been recovered from the campground and brought to the hotel. Despite some fear and trepidation we were going to return to Oktoberfest again that night, so we got ready. This time we were prepared! Coats, extra changes of clothing, pillows, blankets and provisions filled our bags!

Oktoberfest the second night was much more fun. We rode a ridiculous ride where you stood in the middle of a giant gyrating circle that threw you onto the floor and gave you bruises. While it was the worst ride I have ever ridden, it made us all collapse in giggles and amazement. That would have been a lawsuit in the US for sure! We listened to the music, chatted, drank and took lots of pictures. I managed to lose my mug and was completely devastated, but overall the night was a success.

Layne and I lovin' it! So sad about the mug...

The next morning they loaded us on the bus. We were hung-over, tired and worn-out from the traumatic weekend, but we were to be compensated by going horseback riding. While that part was fun, the fact that we were stuck in the middle of a camp for 4 hours without food or water was not so entertaining. We returned to the hotel and were greeted with the worst bar-b-q I have ever had in my entire life. Ah, yes: luxury accommodations.

My favorite people: Layne, Daniel, Natalie, Sam and, oh! Me!
(Charles, where are you?)

When it was finally time to go home, I won’t pretend I wasn’t thrilled. While it was good to get away from the bustle of city life for the weekend, it was more of an “experience” than a “vacation.” However, surviving it together created a myriad of stories my friends and I haven’t stopped laughing about since. Oh, and the impromptu dance party on the bus ride home was an extra bonus highlight…

American Politics in Argentina

2008-09-28T10:32:00.000-07:00

My friend Teri and I:
I'm sitting on the floor since it's so crowded!

Friday I attended a showing of the Presidential Debates hosted by a “democrats abroad” group here in Buenos Aires. It was so much fun! The place was completely packed and I ended up sitting on the floor but had a great view. It was like watching the Superbowl at a bar: except much more political. People cheered. People booed! We had beer and pizza and scandalously criticized everything that was said.

Strangely enough, I actually think that I am following politics more here in Argentina than I did in the US. When I was single and in college I felt politically interested and aware, but when I lived and worked in the OC I just didn’t care much. I was too wrapped up in my little life. However, being here has re-awakened a curiosity about the world and my own home country. I actually spend a lot of time discussing world affairs with my students. They are all so incredibly intelligent and unique; I can bring up the same topic in a few of my different conversation classes and hear completely different perspectives. I absolutely love this! While I’m never going to be the most politically informed human, I definitely enjoy having it be a part of my little life.

And just in case you are wondering, I support Obama. I’ll be attending the absentee voting party October 8^th to send off my vote!

With just a hint of marvelous...

2008-09-28T10:16:00.001-07:00

My sweet friends Natalie and Jessie at Vinos y Bodegas!
See my giant smile? I love wine!
(Please note the amazing tiger-stripe jacket that the woman behind me in the first photo is wearing. Gotta love Argentine fashion!)

I went to the most amazing event this month: Vinos y Bodegas.

I paid $30 pesos ($10 dollars) and received a cup I was able to fill with hundreds of options. There were at least 80 bodegas (vinyards) represented and each had a couple wines available to taste. I tried some amazing Malbecs and the white wine they make here, the Torrontés is also just divine! I felt so spoiled (and more than a little drunk). I now have a long list of things I want to drink again. Fabulous, delicious event!

Photos!

2008-09-01T17:40:00.000-07:00

My favorite girlfriends: Natalie and Jessie!
This is the night that we watched Argentina win the Olympic Gold Metal for soccer while listing to a band a drinking lots and lots of ferrnet!

The other day, I was sitting on the couch and Branko, my roomie, yelled "Hey, look! The firemen are going to rescue that cat!" And they did. Go Argentine firemen!

My apartment here in Buenos Aires:
The view from my room, my homemade bedskirt
(I'm rather proud!) and my little corner of jewelry.

Subte Sensation

2008-08-26T14:48:00.000-07:00

I would like to take a moment to talk about the Subte. This, for my loved ones back in the states, is the Metro or Subway here in Buenos Aires. Interestingly enough, I've never taken the Subway in the US, and I've only used the Metro in Europe a handful of times; so for me, the Subte experience is isolated and unique. It simply is what it is. And it's worth writing about.

Months ago, back when I was living my normal little American life, I would get in my car every day. It was the same experience every day. I mean, the weather might be different, I might be listening to different music; but on the whole I knew exactly what to expect from my daily commute.

This is not the case with the Subte. Each day I ride Line D, then switch to Line C to get to work. The experience lasts about 30 minutes (20 on a good day and 40 on a bad one!). Instead of being a controlled environment, I am at the mercy of the hordes of people flowing through public transportation each morning. Mondays are not so bad. I go to work early: leaving the house and entering Subte-land at about 7:30am. On Mondays I am brave enough to bring a cup of coffee and there is a possibility I will actually get to sit down. Claiming a seat on the Subte is like receiving an entire box of chocolate bon bons.

Tuesday through Thursday I enter the Subte at rush hour: 8:00am. Do not bring coffee. Leave your expectations at home. Try and take off your coat so you won't have sweat running down your back. Prepare to get squished. My body is sandwiched between countless others for a full 20 minutes. Elbows jabbing, old men grunting and pushing, people falling as we come careening to each stop. Some days I stand next to a woman, my nose so close to her that I can see each pore on her face. If I'm lucky she smells nice and I can look at her fascinating earrings and contemplate her hairstyle for the 20-minute ride. If I'm not lucky I'm pushed up against some large, smelly man wreaking of the night before, cigarettes, and morning breath. I'll attempt to advert my gaze from his dandruff-covered shoulders and hope desperately that the stench won't rub off. On days I'm really lucky I'll get to watch couples making out and groping one another (Argentines are unafraid of PDA), or a tiny child sleeping soundly on the seat, his little mouth open and drool running down his rosy cheeks.

So this is my tribute to the Subte. It touches me (literally) every day. It pushes me, shoves me, assails me with its smells, sight and sounds, but most important it gets me and the other throngs of Argentines to our destinations. As long as I don't get knocked over or touched by an armpit, I guess I can't really complain.

Just getting started...

2008-08-21T07:42:00.001-07:00

My favorite: Natalie. She's keeping me sane!

Well, it’s been a bit of a process. I spent a month in school, enjoying friends and stressing over the workload and the uncertainty of my adventure. Then I began to have panic attacks realizing that the end of school meant I needed a job.

After the first few days of job hunting I became acutely aware that business here in Argentina is conducted completely different than in the USA. While employers in my country are very organized, professional and reliable, the employers here in Argentina are incredibly friendly, warm, unorganized, difficult to contact and “fluid” about their business. Remarkably, they accomplish everything that needs to be done; just not in the way and on the time schedule I’m accustomed to. This means that job searching was very stressful for me when I first started. People didn’t call me back. They said I had a job and then I didn’t. I went (go—this is still happening) to pick up materials and I’ve got half of what I need, or the wrong thing. No one has the books they are supposed to.

After the first week of my job search I discovered that relaxing was not only a good idea; but a survival technique here in Argentina. I surrendered my expectations and my timeline and began to try and just have faith that if I went on lots on interviews, smiled pretty and kept up my normal work ethic I would eventually be working sufficient hours to cover my rent. So far, I’m doing pretty well. The schedule is awful, but I do have a job. People want their English classes early in the morning at 8:00 or 8:30 to 10:00, then at noon until about 2:00 and then in the evenings after 6:00. This means that yesterday I worked from 8:30am until 9:00pm and only managed to log in 6 hours of work. Three large breaks in my day makes it disappear in an uncomfortable fashion; but I’m going with the flow. As time continues, I hope that I’ll be able to fill in the gaps with extra classes. Right now I’m working about 18 hours a week and I’m hoping that in the next month or so I can increase those hours to around 25 to 30. We will see! It’s not hard to get classes, but it IS hard to get classes that coordinate as far as scheduling goes. I’ve got all the prime hours filled; now it’s a matter of waiting for the “off-hours” classes to turn up and being the candidate that receives those classes. While patience is not a virtue of mine; it appears to be essential. Let’s call this mandatory personal development.

Me in my new room!

Along with the job search, concurrently I was looking for an apartment. This was also quite the endeavor as most places are owned by a landlord who rents out to students and does the most minimal upkeep possible. I saw some completely filthy living spaces.

I’ve ended up with three male roomies: an Argentine, a Canadian, and one other man from Holland. While living with lots of men sounds little scary, they are very, very mellow. I’ve appreciated the lack of drama, and everyone is very independent and busy. Aside from the fact that my room is above a noisy street and I need earplugs at night, I like my place! Bonus: I have my own bathroom and a full-size bed (this is an absolute treasure here in Argentina)!

My Argentine roommate Adolfo on our patio.

So that is the update. I’m getting sick again so I’ve been sucking down orange juice in my favorite café this morning. Love that OJ here is ALWAYS fresh-squeezed. I still feel like I’m adjusting, but the pieces are slowly falling into place. As exciting as it has been arriving here, doing things that are hard in America (job hunting, house hunting) has been even more difficult here and I’m feeling a little exhausted as well. I miss everyone and I’m so sad I am not on vacation with the rest of my family right now! Have extra fun for me guys! Un beso grande a todos!

Real Life?

2008-07-28T18:23:00.000-07:00

Celebrating the last day of class!

Well, I've finished my TEFL course... and now it's time to start "real life" here in Buenos Aires.

First: I finally found an apartment! I had to look at many, many dirty, disgusting places to find a decent spot, but I really like it. I'll have 3 roommates, all guys, from Argentina, Holland and Canada. Very international house. The selling point was the big bed and my own bathroom! So I'm excited about that; I move in on the 10th of this month.

Second: Now I need a job to pay my rent each month! I've got interviews set up tomorrow and Friday, so hopefully I'll be working soon. It should be interesting, since this is a completely new career path for me. I'm sure I'll have some stories.

Third: Fun! Hoping I have some time to get out and see the tourist spots here in Buenos Aires. I've met some fabulous people already and we are planning to have lots and lots of fun this year. Woot woot!

Uruguay with my roomie Fran

Little Tourist

2008-07-12T21:28:00.000-07:00

The Recoleta Cemetery. Graveyards at this cemetery are leased, so if the family of the deceased does not continue to pay, the body is thrown out and the grave demolished. Talk about leaving a legacy.

La Boca is a fun, touristy part of Buenos Aires. It's a working class neighborhood, famous for the brightly colored houses and the strong tango culture.

Ok, so maybe I'm having a little bit of fun...

2008-07-06T18:21:00.000-07:00

This weekend I looked out the window of the 15th-story Cuppola where I was listening to my Argentinian friends play guitars and sing tango canciones as the sun was rising over this big, energetic, foreign city and I thought, "I live here. It's real."

Bienvenidos!

2008-07-04T18:00:00.000-07:00

This week was a little disorientating. Arriving in a big, new city and starting my Teaching English as a Foreign Language (TEFL) course was a very new experience for me. I guess I was foolish enough to be thinking this experience would resemble a vacation... but it's been crazy!

My class is very intense and I've been trying to carry on with "real" life like going to the gym and the grocery store so I haven't had much time to be a tourist. I taught my first English lesson last night and it was a nerve-racking experience, although I think it went fairly well. I certainly have room for improvement! I'm learning a lot, though and hopefully I'll be a wonderful teacher by the time this is all done.

I did buy a pretty scarf at an outdoor market, and I managed to have a divine dinner with steak and lots of good wine on Wednesday. Hopefully this weekend I'll have a little more fun, even though I do have mountains of homework! Tonight's just getting started... we aren't meeting for dinner until 11! Although I doubt I'll last until 7 am like most Argentinians.

Loves and hugs to all... I miss everyone!

2008-06-06T22:26:00.000-07:00

Well, so far I haven't arrived at the exciting part, but I'm going to promise you adventure and magic, because that's what I've promised myself. I leave June 27th, so wish me luck!

Just couldn't resist!